Singapore Trip Report - April 2013

Hello peeps!

After roughing it up in Indonesia, I finally went back to civilisation and I did it in style - Singapore style :)

Singapore was everything I hoped it would be and even more, so much so, I am actually thinking about getting a job there after my travels! Maybe it was the contrast of being in a mega-city after the smaller scale of the places I had been in Indonesia, or perhaps being in swept by the clean and safe feeling I got as soon as I landed, or the fact that the city reminded me of a warmer version of London - whatever it was, I truly fell in love with this fascinating city.

Not everyone I have met enjoyed Singapore as much as I did. I guess it is a matter of personal preferences. Let's get into the technical stuff about this city state and maybe you will understand why I want to move in :)

First glimpse of Singapore on the way from the airport

 1. Getting there

Changi is the only international airport in Singapore. Alternative flight free options into the country are the ferry from Indonesia's Pulau Batam to Singapore Harbourfront or the bus/train from Malaysia.

I flew in from Jakarta with Air Asia but Singapore is a hub in South East Asia so many airlines fly there.

No visa required with a European passport - you will simply get a stamp allowing you to stay up to 90 days in the country. No need to provide proof of onward journey to get your stamp.

Singapore skyline from the bay

Check on skyscanner for an idea of airlines going to Singapore and prices. Also check on other sites as skyscanner doesn't always show low cost carriers. From around South East Asia, Air Asia offers very cheap flights to and from Singapore.

For all the destinations, I made sure to check out the reviews on Trip Advisor and was never disappointed with a choice made based on these.

2. Accommodation

E.X.P.E.N.S.I.V.E!!! Even hostel dorms are very expensive so your stay in Singapore will definitely set you back a fair bit on your travel budget.

I stayed at Wink Hostel in Chinatown, a 5min walk from the MRT station. A touch more upmarket than your average hostel in town, but super clean and safe. The dorm beds are pods that give maximum privacy. The staff is just great and food courts are within walking distance. You can arrange for tickets to a number of attractions from their front desk.

2. Things to do

There are a number of attractions in Singapore so you will be snapping away for your whole stay although to be fair - you are more likely to spend most of your time eating, so diverse are the cuisines on offer all around town!

I went to the following places:

- Raffles Terrace: a peaceful oasis in the hustle and bustle of the city. I tried to gate crash an outdoor performance of Othello, but was kindly but firmly turned back to the gate by the smiling lady :)
I really enjoyed walking through the spice garden though.

The Sands, the Durian and the Wheel of Singapore

- Marina Bay Sands: this iconic sight of the Singapore skyline is worth checking for the breathtaking views of the city. Go to the bar in Tower 1 - it is free to go up, and the drinks are surprisingly cheap.

A night to remember

- Night Safari: no flash photography allowed so you will leave with plenty memories but not so many pictures. Still, I would say it is very worth the trip.

Restaurants, hawker centers, street food
- you name it, they have it!

- Food courts: yes, I include these in the sights because eating is almost a hobby in Singapore and there is so much on offer, even the fussiest eater will be satisfied!

4. Good to know

- Currency is the Singapore dollar, SGD. ATM are everywhere although I haven't noticed many money changers.

- Electricity is 220V, with the 3 pins system like in the UK.

- Tap water is OK to drink. Food is OK to consume everywhere.

- Mosquitoes are present, but not a complete nuisance. I got bitten a few time so keep your mosquito repellent handy, preferably DEET 50%. Air con is everywhere, so mosquito nets are not necessary.

- The whole city feels safe so no need to be paranoid about getting your stuff stolen. That's not to say you should don't flash money or expensive gadgets, specially at night, but then again local people are likely to have more up to date gear than you ;)

- Best to keep PDA to a minimum as Singapore remains a fairly traditional place. It is just that people don't normally get physical in public. LGBT peeps will not face any trouble, but just like straight couple, are advised to keep a PDA to a minimum.

- Shorts and skimpy tops not an issue. Keep it decent though.

- Public transport is extremely organised and it is easy to get around with buses or MRT. Staff are very helpful and can help you with any questions. Everything is absolutely spotless clean and safe. Taxis are metered and flag charges clearly displayed so no risk of getting  a doggy deal.

- Doctors and hospitals - never had to use them so cannot comment.

- I didn't buy any souvenirs however fellow backpackers have advised to go to little India for a better deal compared to Chinatown.

So - That was my experience in Singapore. I did it on the cheap, but if you're looking to splurge a bit, there are many many many things for you to enjoy over there too.

I enjoyed the city so much, I will be going back for a few days end of June!

Enjoy!
:)

From Singapore, with love...

Indonesia Trip Report

Hello peeps!

After two months in Indonesia visiting Bali, the Gili Islands, Lombok and finally Jakarta, I finally get my hands on a computer with a reliable internet connection! It has been a while, and I know you have missed me :)

The summary of my stay in Indonesia: I had the chance to experience the best and the worst backpacking can offer and I cannot say how lucky I feel.
The best because I got to meet absolutely lovely people, see the mist amazing sky at night, see turtles so close that I could reach out and touch them and much more.
The worst because I was unfortunate enough to witness prostitution linked to mass tourism.

So without further ado, let's get into the technical stuff about Indonesia. I will however focus on the parts I visited, leaving the rest for you to explore separately.

Indonesia

 1. Getting there

There are many points of entry in Indonesia from London, covering all the main islands of the archipelago.  Most airlines will have a connecting flight either in Dubai, Hong Kong, Singapore or Jakarta.
My first stop in Indonesia was Bali so I flew there to Denpasar airport with Cathay Pacific via Hong Kong.

You will need a visa to visit Indonesia. Most people simply pick up a 30-day visa on arrival at the airport. Costs 25 USD and can be renewed once for a further 30 days. Follow this link for details of what is needed for the VOA.
Or you can choose to apply in the UK for a 60-day visa, which can also be renewed for an extra 30 days in the country. Have a look here for the requirements for the 60-day visa.

One thing that should be noted - some airlines, and Cathay Pacific is among them, will require a proof of onward journey before even issuing a boarding pass. Looking at the emabssy website, the proof of onward journey is actually a requirement for all travelers entering the country. Some people don't get asked, some do - I was, but I came prepared with a print out of a booking for a cheap flight on AirAsia to Singapore.
My advice - have a proof of onward journey with you. It would be a shame to be refused boarding because the vast majority of posters on travel forums say they didn't get asked for this.

Many airlines do the London/Bali route, so check on skyscanner for an idea of prices and routes. Also check on other sites as skyscanner doesn't always show low cost carriers.

For all the destinations, I made sure to check out the reviews on Trip Advisor and was never disappointed with a choice made based on these.

2. Bali

2.1 Kuta, Bali

I spent my first two nights in Bali in Kuta and I hated every single minute of it!

Kuta is a very busy touristy city, with westerners walking around sipping on huge bottles of beer  and shop keepers literally grabbing you to come have a look inside! Definitely not an enjoyable place to be.

The crowd in mainly young Australian surfer dudes who play hard.

Kuta beach, although famous, was less than an impressive sight for me. Dogs roaming round, people trying to sell you all sorts - drinks, surf lessons, massage, sarong, bracelets, etc... - and most importantly, the sea is more for surfing that swimming with huge swells crashing on the beach.

I cannot recommend anything there, as both accommodation and food left me feeling rather cold!

2.1 Ubud

Following the debacle of Kuta, I got a bus ticket for Ubud, a town among the rice paddies further inland.

The vibe there is definitely more to yoga and spirituality. Dreadlocked westerners walking  around barefooted with an enlightened smile on their face are a common sight. The locals are adopting a very laid back attitude, having seen it all I guess.

Rice fields in Ubud

For me Ubud was much closer to the idea I had of Bali before I came - relaxed, green, spiritual.
I even tried my hand at yoga and I discovered something I will keep in my routine for years to come.

I used Ubud as a base from where I would do day trips to visit the rest of the island. There are travel agents at every street corners with all sorts of offers so with a little bargaining is it easy to get a very through look at the rest of the island.

From what I have seen of Bali, Ubud is definitely my favourite place and I hope to visit again in the future.

You are spoiled for choice with regards to accommodation - from high end hotels such as Ubud Hanging Gardens and their amazing infinity pool over looking lush jungle, to  cheap guesthouses.
I was staying at Widia Homestay - for IDR 100,000 I had my own cottage with double bed and bathroom, with breakfast included. There are only 3 rooms so the place is quite often full. Call in advance to ensure you get a spot.

I had my first taste of yoga with the team at Radiantly Alive. I highly recommend this studio! The instructors are very knowledgeable and patient with newbies like me, and Daniel the owner is one of a kind :) It's yoga without the self righteousness you can fin in other places. They also offer a very good deal for new comers. What's not to love!

Food places are plentiful, but the best ones for me where Dewa Warung, Warung Ibu Oka and the best of the best - Mama's Warung

For info on what is on in Ubud, go to the Tourist Information Centre opposite Ubud Place in the town centre. You can also get tickets to the traditional dance shows there.

All sorts of activities are on offer, to suit every taste - volcano trekking to see the sunrise to white water rafting, pampering, yoga, cultural visits, etc...

3. Lombok

3.1 Gili Islands

One word - O.M.G!!!! OK that's actually 3 words, but still!

Ever imagined crystal clear waters, diner on fish just hauled out of the water, swimming with turtles and little fishes coming in for a nip? Then welcome to the Gilis :)

These 3 little dusting of sand just off the north western coast of Lombok are bound to blow your socks away each in their own way.

• Gili Trawangan

The biggest of the 3, it is the party island. Not so much my cup of tea, but why not?
Expect crowds of 20-somethings hanging around during the day and downing Bintang like water at night.

Gili T viewed from Gili Meno

• Gili Meno

The smallest of the 3, it is very quiet - and I mean VERY... I went there for a day and OK, I know it was low season, but the place felt eerily empty. They say it is the honeymoon island and I guess apart from losing yourself in the eyes of your other half, well there is not much to do!
Cheap accommodation can be found at Blue Coral.

• Gili Air

An afternoon in Gili Air

The closest to Lombok and a nice balance between party and chilling out. This is where I stayed with my travel buddy for 2 weeks.

The ambiance is laid back, the locals are very friendly, the fish and seafood are fresh and the snorkeling is just amazing. You only need to wade in from the shore to see all sorts of coral formations, fishes and turtles!

My favourite place in Indonesia by far!!!

Welcome to Scallywags :)

I stayed at Segar Villages, just outside the main touristy cluster. I shared a bungalow complete with breakfast, outdoor bathroom and waterfall shower!

You should definitely check out Scallywags if you make it to Gili Air. The best brownies and apple crumble EVER.

3.2 Kuta, Lombok

Was nice but felt strangely empty. The beach is lined with cafes and restaurants but apart from a few places, everywhere was deserted. I am not sure whether it was because I went during low season or if the place is always like this. The upside of this is that we had the place for ourselves and could get to chat to the locals.

Kids playing at Kuta Beach

The Kuta beach is nice, but at closer look, not so interesting - packs of dogs are roaming around, doing their business on the beach... Gross! Walk further away or hire a scooter and you come to the most beautiful beached I have seen so far. White sand, dramatic scenery and view on the surf - just sit back and relax :)

Mawin Beach, surfers paradise

I stayed at Seger Reef, at the end of the Kuta strip. I shared a bungalow with a friend - two very big single beds, bathroom attached, fan and breakfast for a very reasonable IDR 130,000. Again. this was low season, so expect prices to inflate in June-August season.
For food Mario's Warrung - the one with Super Mario's head on the sign - is the best and cheapest you can get on the strip.

One big annoyance are the kids selling little trinkets. They are really pushy and keep trying even if you keep saying no to them. As bad as it sounds, the only way to deal with it is to just ignore them :(

3. Jakarta

If you can, avoid at all cost! There is nothing good I can say about the city. It is loud, busy, polluted, car jammed most of the time and I did not feel safe going out on my own - and that was in the tourist district. To top it up, my hotel seemed to run a side business of rooms hired by the hour... I will let you guess why!

Just like Kuta, there is nothing I can recommend here. You would be better off flying into Yogyakarta for Java or even Denpasar for Bali.

4. Good to know

- Currency is the Rupiah, IDR. Bureaux de change and ATM are widely available in touristy areas.

- Electricity is 220V, with the round pins system like in continental Europe.

- Tap water is never OK to drink. Always buy bottles or refill at the hotels. Food is OK to consume everywhere, even at the road side and beach shacks. Just keep an eye out for doggy places.

- Mosquitoes are most active on the coast, but even in Ubud I got bitten, so always apply DEET 50% s and sleep under a mosquito net, preferably with the fan or air con on! Long sleeves top and bottoms are also recommended. Malaria or yellow fever are not a real risk but still try and avoid mosquitoes.

- Always keep your belongings in view and don't flash money or expensive gadgets, specially at night.

- Indonesia is an Islamic country, so keep PDA to a minimum and LGBT peeps are advised to keep a low profile. Best to pretend being just good friends if traveling as part of a same sex couple. Most places I have been, there was no problems wearing shorts, but be mindful of the local sensibilities and dress and behave accordingly.

Horse drawn cart on Gili Air

- Public transport: Bemos are mini vans linking towns and villages. I didn't have to use one during my stay so no idea if they are reliable.
Ojeks are motorbike taxi. They are everywhere and people will sometimes just stop and ask if you want a ride.
Taxis are everywhere. Most don't have a meter so you need to agree the price before hand. When meters are available, always insist to have it on as drivers tend to 'forget' to switch them on...
Best way to visit around is to hire a motorbike. Tours can be arranged with travels agents at every street corner. In the Gilis and Lombok you can also find horse drawn carts :)

Tuk tuk in Jakarta

- Doctors and hospitals - never had to use them so cannot comment.

- Sellers in Indonesia can be very pushy, specially in markets. Always always haggle - for goods, transports, travels agents and even hotel rooms!



- I always cross checked the info in the Lonely Planet with the reviews on Trip Advisor for all the accommodations I have been to and so far this has paid off well.

That's my take on Indonesia. I am happy I went but I cannot say I will definitely go back, apart maybe in Ubud and the Gilis.

Enjoy!
:)

Martinique Trip Report

Hello peeps!

A few days left in Martinique before I fly back to the UK for a few weeks. Despite my initial doubts, I had an amazing time here. What's the big deal you might ask? Well, going back home for two months meant I was surrounded by the family 24/7- even while sleeping! No escaping it, but I live to tell the tale...

 1. Getting there
 

There are no direct flights to Martinique from London, so I flew BA for London/Paris then Air France for Paris/Martinique. My original Paris/Martinique was a direct one, but when I got to Paris, I was offered €150 to change to a Paris/Guadeloupe then Guadeloupe/Martinique. Despite the delays and subsequent luggage no show in Martinique following the flight change, it was not a bad deal.

 Other airlines also do the Paris/Martinique route, with various degrees of schedule reliability. That said, Air France was also rather bad on time keeping during December, with flights being delayed almost every day!

Same immigration requirements as for France as this is a French territory. So good news if you hold a European passport, otherwise have a look here for what is needed:

http://www.diplomatie.gouv.fr/en/france/coming-to-france/getting-a-visa/

2. Accommodation

I did not need to look for accommodation as I was staying with my family. As other cousins and their children were also coming for the Xmas/NY holidays, I had my first taste of sharing a bunk-bedded room with up to 3 small kids at a time - ear plugs were liberally applied throughout the stay!

Colourful beach hut, built by an ex convict - no available for hire!

There is choice between high end hotels, guesthouses, rentals and camping.Accommodation in Martinique is usually expensive. The only way to keep costs low is to book ahead. Have a look here for an idea of what is on offer:

http://www.tripadvisor.com.au/Hotels-g147327-Martinique-Hotels.html

3. Weather
 

December and January are within the dry season - called Careme here - but stay fairly windy with the occasional burst of rain. During my whole stay, temperatures were in the mid to high 20s, although some nights were a touch on the chilly side with a "low" and windy 22-23 degC - all still very acceptable!

The rain was never an all-day affair and would leaving plenty of day-time hours to do stuff.The water temperature was well within the mid 20s.

4. Things to do

Thanks to the good weather, there was plenty to do during my stay, aside of eating a feast at every family gathering for Xmas Eve and Day, NY Eve and Day, birthdays, Sundays and every other possible occasion!

The beach at Anse D'Arlet

The beach was my favourite destination, with a swim every other day or so, pending family gatherings. I stayed mainly on the beaches in the south of the island. There the beaches are with white sand, as opposed to the northern part, where the beaches are with black volcanic sand, glittering with tiny little crystals.

Inside the Aquabulle

   

I did an outing on a glass bottomed boat in Le Marin. The Aquabulle (http://www.aquabulle.com/) is unique in offering this concept and it is well worth it! The hull of the boat is like a submarine and you get to see all the little fishes swimming around and there a swim at the end. This marketed towards families with small children - but I really enjoyed it :) 

                                                               

I have always wanted to sail in the Grenadines Islands, so I set out to find a boat doing the route and looking for crew. I finally found a guy, however the plan fell through in the end - being the only female on board, I did not feel very comfortable sharing a rather small space with 3 other guys. I had cold sweat just thinking about bathroom logistics!!

Cruises up or down in the Caribbean from Martinique can be done either aboard a proper cruiser - needs to be booked before arriving here for best deals - or by getting a lift from a private owner. It is rather easy to find boats looking for crew, you just need to keep an eye on the boards at the harbour in Le Marin, or simply talk to people on the pontoons. For a proper job with a charter agency, you need to have some sort of certificate saying you know the basics of sailing, and be registered with the harbour authority.

To soften the disappointment of the missed cruise, I spent a day sailing in the bay opposite Le Robert, in the north-east. The weather was great, sun shining from the word go, friendly crew and a "rum baptism"!

Many companies on the market offering to take you for half a day/day/w.e. Check out http://www.choubouloute.fr/ for a list of what is on offer.

I did mine in Le Robert with the Bwa Drese guys: (https://www.facebook.com/catamaran.bwadrese)

Lunch time stop at a mangrove beach

Another seaside activity: sea kayaking. I did this in a transparent boat! The visit took us out on the reef, then back in the mangrove and finished with a swim on the way back home. Simply amazing!    

 I did my tour with http://fleurdo.com/ but there are a number of companies offering half day/day outings on the classic kayaks or you can just rent one individually. Good listings on http://www.choubouloute.fr/



There are plenty of hiking/trekking/canyoning trails crisscrossing the island, most self-guided though. I could not get a group together to do one of the big trails unfortunately, but I did a short hike in the mangrove. Now that was a little bit smelly and I almost lost a boot in the mud, but was an amazing sight!

Have a look here for more info on the trails available on the island: http://www.onf.fr/martinique/sommaire/onf

Martinique is also a favourite diving spot, with a numbers of ships wrecks close to shore as well as reefs. I did a dive with Nathalie from Kalinago Diving Centre in Sainte Anne (http://www.kalinagoplongee.fr/english/index.html). I was very nervous at the beginning, but Nathalie handled everything very professionally making the whole experience absolutely amazing!

There are countless other activities available, indoors, outdoors, seaside, land bound and air borne! Please check the official website for more info: http://www.martinique.org/

5. Good to know

- Being a French territory, the Euro is the currency in Martinique. ATM are widely available. There are bureaux de change at the airport and main touristic hot spots, and you can also change money at the post office.

- Electricity is 220V, with the round pins system.

- Tap water is OK to drink. Food is OK to consume everywhere, even at the road side and beach shacks. Just keep an eye out for doggy places.

- Mosquitoes are everywhere and very persistent little buggers. Keep your DEET 50% spray handy and sleep under a mosquito net, preferably with the fan or air con on! Long sleeves top and bottoms are also recommended. There is no malaria or yellow fever in Martinique, but the dengue fever is still very much present, so try and avoid mosquitoes!

- Although there are no major issues with safety on the island, keep your eyes open and your belongings where you can see them. Also night time can be a bit rowdy, specially in the capital Fort de France, as alcohol flows more than freely!

- The island is definitely not gay friendly. The majority of the local LGBT is closeted, some even finding it easier to keep a low profile by having "normal" families and hooking up with like minded people in very low key parties and meet ups. Public displays of affection and physical contact should be avoided for same sex couples, as well as trying to chat up a local unless you know for a fact this will be positively received - the response could otherwise be violent.

A couple of bars and one B&B in the touristy hot spot of Pointe du Bout are openly geared up towards the LGBT community. Outside of these, best to pretend being just good friends if traveling as a couple.

It is not all doom and gloom though - the younger generation is somewhat more tolerant, but there is still an awful lot to do on the topic.

- Public transport: in one word - shambolic! Unless you are happy staying put in the area around your accommodation, you need to hire a car, and that does not come cheap. There is a system of mini buses centered on Fort de France, the capital, meaning you might have to go there first to catch another bus to you chosen destination. There are no set schedules, the buses leaving whenever they are full. No night buses, last ones are usually around 5pm. If you are in a big group, it might be interesting to hire a mini bus for the day, but you will need to negotiate hard on the price! Taxis are expensive, so best avoided unless absolutely necessary.

- Doctors and hospitals are French standard, so you will be taken good care off should you need an medical assistance.

- People in Martinique are very laid back, meaning service can sometimes be veeeery slow! Only way to deal with it is to just keep your cool, getting all worked up will not make things go any quicker :)

That's it on Martinique. Hope you will come visit some day, it is a very nice little corner of the world.

Warm regards from Martinique