Malaysia Trip Report - Apr - May 2013

Hello peeps!

Apa kabar? It's been a loooong while in the coming there it is - my Malayisa Trip Report :)

This will be only for my first stay in Malaysia in May-June. The summary of my stay in Mantanani Island volunteering with Camps International will be the topic of a separate post.

The Petronas Towers, an iconic element of the skyline in Kuala Lumpur

 1. Getting there

Main points of entry in Malaysia from London are Kuala Lumpur (KL) in the Peninsula, Kota Kinabalu (KK) and Kuchin in Borneo, although you might have at least one stopover en route for the Borneo destinations. Most airlines will have a connecting flight either in Dubai, Hong Kong or, Singapore.
My first stop in Malaysia was Melaka coming from Singapore, so I got the bus there.

You will get a free 90 days visa on arrival, whether coming by plane or crossing land borders. No proof on onward journey required to enter the country.

Many airlines do the London/KL route, so check on skyscanner for an idea of prices and routes. Air Asia is also a good bet when traveling from other countries in South East Asia. Also check on other sites as skyscanner doesn't always show low cost carriers.

For all the destinations, I made sure to check out the reviews on Trip Advisor, Hostelworld and Hostelbookers and was never disappointed with a choice made based on these.

2. Melaka

My first stop in Malaysia, coming from Singapore by ViP bus.The journey was rather uneventful - I slept most of the way! A couple of toilet stops as well as the border crossing stop were more than enough to keep my bladder happy :)

One notable sight though - palm oil trees were everywhere! This was my first encounter with deforestation on a massive scale to make way for these oil plantations.

The bus station in Melaka is away from the town centre and the taxi there cost 30 MYR - the bus is just a few ringgits.

The first thing I noticed arriving at the bus station was a massive Tesco - that was rather unexpected! Actually, I really didn't think I would find such a level of development at all - I even bought period pads from the supermarket before leaving Singapore, thinking Malaysia would be just like Indonesia where choice in this particular genre is limited to the 'uncomfortable' variety.

These little pedicabs are all the furor in Melaka

Melaka in itself is a large-ish town. There are the historical sights downtown, two luxurious malls facing each other, countless 7-Elevens and ATMs. Again, the image I had in mind was completely wrong!

My first taste of Malay food was amazing - nasi lemak, aka coconut rice and toppings, from a street stall not far from my accommodation. That's all it took to make me fall in love with this country :)

There are several bus companies doing the route Singapore to Melaka, most of them clustered in the Golden Mile Complex not far from Jalan Sultan. Prices are very similar, sometimes you get a pick up from town rather than the Complex. I got a ViP bus, set up 1+2 seats per row and I got a single seat at not extra cost. 

Christ Church

Loads of choice with regards to accommodation in Melaka. I stayed at Apa Kaba Home & Stay not far from Christ Church - for 30 MYR I had a single bed in a small room, shared toilet/bathroom, breakfast included. The owner was really helpful with map, info and recommendations.

For activities, I went to the Baba-Nonya Heritage Museum. It was a tour of a traditional house used by a Strait Chinese family back in the old days. The Stadthuys and Christ Church were rather impressive and well preserved. Across the river is Jonker Street and it's Sunday Night Market, with souvenirs and food. The Menara Taming Sari is a 360 viewing deck that will take you for 15min for great views over the city.

3. Kuala Lumpur

KL... After Singapore, my 2nd favourite city in South East Asia! Why? It's big, it's busy, it's multicultural, it's a food feast and it feels safe to walk around, even late.

I got the bus from Melaka. Again, many bus companies doing the route, prices within the same range. Another uneventful journey where I slept most of the way.

Yes I do :)

Loads to do in KL - the Petronas Twin Towers are an obvious must, although rather expensive to go on top. A much cheaper alternative is the KL Tower which gives 360deg views over the city. Shopping for (fake) designer items is to be had at the Petaling Street Market in Chinatown. They are tough at haggling down, but don't let up, they will eventually go down on the price. Despite all the market is only fake stuff, it is still very good quality and for the price you end up paying, it stays a very good deal.

Food wise - there is plenty to satisfy even the pickiest eater in KL. Malay, Chinese and Indian food places are everywhere and you can't go very wrong when it is a s cheap as that!

FYI, there are four bus stations in KL, each serving different areas of the coutry:
1. the southern terminal Terminal Bersepadu Selatan (TBS) at Bandar Tasik LRT station serves all routes to/from the south, so this is where I arrived coming from Melaka.
2. the town terminal Puduraya Sentral Bus Terminal is not far from Chinatown and serves routes to/from the north.
3. Duta Bus Terminal is also for buses mainly going to the north but most of the bus companies are at Puduraya. Worth double checking when booking the agency is you're not buying your ticket directly from the station.
4. Pekeliling Bus Terminal serves the routes to/from the east coast. Nearest LRT Station: Titiwangsa Station on the monorail line.

You are spoiled for choice with regards to accommodation - from high end hotels such as Traders with their amazing view over KLCC and the Petronas Towers, to  cheap hostels.
I stayed at both Traders, courtesy of a very generous friend who offered to share her room, and BackHome, a high spec hostel between Chinatown and Little India.

4. Cameron Highlands

Lush, green and rolling views of tea shrubs

I only stayed a couple of nights in Tana Rata, the main stop for the Cameron Highlands. The town itself is rather unremarkable, the main interest being the numerous walks in the area as well as tea plantations you can visit.

I took the opportunity to sample Malaysia's famous Teh Tarik during a visit to the Boh Tea Estate :)

Only a handful of hostel, with mixed reviews. I stayed at Eight Mentigi Guesthouse. I had my own room, shared facilities, for 30MYR, but you could touch both sides of the room with arms stretched out! It was clean and safe though, so cannot complain.

5. Penang

If KL is my 2nd favourite place in South East Asia, then Penang sure is a close 3rd! A bit cliche, but this is definitely the food capital of Malaysia. I stayed mainly in Georgetown, with a day trip round the island to see the other sights the island has to offer.

Sunset in Georgetown

You cannot go hungry in Georgetown - Mee Goreng (fried noodles), Fish Ball Koay Teow Soup, Asam Laksa (a coconut based soup with noodles and an assortment of yummy topings), Cendol (the weirdest ever ice dessert, with red kidney beans and sweet corn???), Curry Mee (noodles in a curry sauces), all sorts of finger licking good Indian dishes and the world famous Char Kway Teow (flat noodles stir fried with cockles, pork meat, suasages, eggs - looks mean but tastes awesome!). Needless to say I tried everything, more than once...

Street art in Georgetown

Street art is also a big thing in Georgetown, with many mural on display. Just pick up a map, pack some water, put sunscreen on and off you!

There are many hostels and guesthouses in Georgetown. I stayed at Syok, a recently opened hostel at the time of travel, in Chulia Street. I was mostly empty and some bits still needed polishing off, but overall a very good place to stay, close to the night markets but quiet. At 48MYR a night in the mixed dorms it is definitely more flashpacker than backpacker, but they have deals going if you book a few nights in a row.

6. Sabah

• City side in Kota Kinabalu

Chicken butt... I swear I didn't know!

KK is a big city but it felt a lot more human scale than KL. I spent most of my time eat yet again, this time at the night market. All manner of seafood is on offer and cooked from fresh. Just point, pay and be ready to be blown away!

Most people come to KK to climb up mount Kinabalu. It is a tough undertaking, not for the faint hearted and a permit needs to be organised. No permit, no guide - and going alone is a one way ticket to a very early grave.

I stayed in the dorms at Masda Backpacker, the main interest being the all day breakfast. A 6-bed female dorm cost 35MYR a night. It is clean and close to the night market and the Sunday market.

• Wild side in the jungle

Misty morning on
the Kinabatangan River

From KK I booked a 3D2N tour to go in the jungle along the Kinabatangan river, in the east part of Sabah. I saw a plenty of wild life, including a pygmy elephant, but no elusive man of the forest, the wild orang outan.

After the jungle, I made my way to Sandakan before flying back to KK to catch a flight to the Philipines.

The package in the jungle also included accommodation in dorm style rooms so this will depend which company you book with. I found that the prices dropped a bit if booking from Sandakan compared to KK.
In Sandakan I stayed at Harbourside Backpackers for 25MYR a night. Clean and conveniently situated in the town centre and not far from the market. They also have a very good DVD selection!
Check out the Malaysian Airlines website for bargain fares from KK to Sandakan or Lahad Datu - the short flight is a much more interesting option than the 6hrs bus journey to/from KK!

7. Tioman Island

Cute little place off the East coast of Peninsular Malaysia, with all surrounding waters declared marine park and reserve. The inland rainforest is also a protected area and there is a very nice walk from Tetek to Juara, the only touristy area on the east coast.

The beach in Juara

I spent a little under a week on the island diving, diving and diving a bit more :)

The main drag is the main village of Tetek on the west coast. There is a further backpackery strip at Air Batang aka ABC, a short taxi ride followed by a 20 walk from Tetek.

The ambiance is laid back, the locals very friendly. Fish and seafood are fresh but relatively expensive, considering this is an island. There is a duty free shop on the island where you can find beer almost cheaper than water!

Diving is the main attraction here obviously, with a variety of dive sites available, from reefs to wrecks, to suit all abilities. Snorkeling from the shore is just as rewarding an experience. Just grab you mask and snorkel and jump in!

I stayed at Cheers Cottages, a short walk from the ferry terminal. I had a double room with shared facilities for 30MYR. Cheaper accommodation can be found in ABC, but be aware you will only get what you pay for...
Food wise, the many little restaurants offer good food, relatively inexpensive unless you go for the seafood BBQ.
The cheapest way to get to the island is the ferry from Mersing on the east cosat, but you can also fly in from KL and Singapore in the tiniest ever plane - hold onto your knickers for a very bumpy ride!
Diving was with Tioman Dive Centre, a small operation in Tetek. Lovely people, clear safety briefing and amazing dives.

8. Good to know

- Currency is the Malaysian Ringgit, MYR. Bureaux de change and ATM are widely available in most towns. Only 1 ATM on Tioman when I was there - not so good when running out of cash during the w.e...

- Electricity is 220V, with the round pins system like in continental Europe.

- Tap water is never OK to drink. Always buy bottles or refill at the hotels. Food is OK to consume everywhere, even at the road side and beach shacks. Just keep an eye out for doggy places.

- Mosquitoes are pretty much everywhere, even got bitten in KL, so always apply DEET 50%. Mosquito are provided. Long sleeves top and bottoms are also recommended as malaria is a risk.

- Always keep your belongings in view and don't flash money or expensive gadgets, specially at night.

- Malaysia is an Islamic country, so keep PDA to a minimum and LGBT peeps are advised to keep a low profile. Best to pretend being just good friends if traveling as part of a same sex couple. Most places I have been, there was no problems wearing shorts, but be mindful of the local sensibilities and dress and behave accordingly.

- Public transport: inter city bus travel was by far the easiest and cheapest, although internal flights with Malaysian Airlines can be dirt cheap too! When buying bus tickets, best to go to the bus station directly as hostels/travel agents will add a commission to the actual price of the ticket.
Taxis are everywhere in the cities. Most don't have a meter so you need to agree the price before hand. When meters are available, always insist to have it on as drivers tend to 'forget' to switch them on...

- Doctors and hospitals - never had to use them so cannot comment. Healthcare is supposed to be very good in KL.

- Always always haggle - for goods, transports, travels agents and even hotel rooms!

- I always cross checked the info in the Lonely Planet with the reviews on Trip Advisor, Hostelworld and Hostelbooker for all the accommodations I have been to and so far this has paid off well.

That's my summary for Malaysia. It really is a beautiful country, with lovely people. In my initial plan, I only allocated 3wks to go through peninsular Malaysia - I was worried that being a single female traveler I would get a lot of hassle in this muslim country.
I ended up staying 5wks and coming back for a further 8wks, so it cannot be all that bad! I was even considering staying on for a lot longer and tried to get a job with the company I did some volunteer work with, but that's a story for another post!

Sama sama!
:)

Indonesia Trip Report

Hello peeps!

After two months in Indonesia visiting Bali, the Gili Islands, Lombok and finally Jakarta, I finally get my hands on a computer with a reliable internet connection! It has been a while, and I know you have missed me :)

The summary of my stay in Indonesia: I had the chance to experience the best and the worst backpacking can offer and I cannot say how lucky I feel.
The best because I got to meet absolutely lovely people, see the mist amazing sky at night, see turtles so close that I could reach out and touch them and much more.
The worst because I was unfortunate enough to witness prostitution linked to mass tourism.

So without further ado, let's get into the technical stuff about Indonesia. I will however focus on the parts I visited, leaving the rest for you to explore separately.

Indonesia

 1. Getting there

There are many points of entry in Indonesia from London, covering all the main islands of the archipelago.  Most airlines will have a connecting flight either in Dubai, Hong Kong, Singapore or Jakarta.
My first stop in Indonesia was Bali so I flew there to Denpasar airport with Cathay Pacific via Hong Kong.

You will need a visa to visit Indonesia. Most people simply pick up a 30-day visa on arrival at the airport. Costs 25 USD and can be renewed once for a further 30 days. Follow this link for details of what is needed for the VOA.
Or you can choose to apply in the UK for a 60-day visa, which can also be renewed for an extra 30 days in the country. Have a look here for the requirements for the 60-day visa.

One thing that should be noted - some airlines, and Cathay Pacific is among them, will require a proof of onward journey before even issuing a boarding pass. Looking at the emabssy website, the proof of onward journey is actually a requirement for all travelers entering the country. Some people don't get asked, some do - I was, but I came prepared with a print out of a booking for a cheap flight on AirAsia to Singapore.
My advice - have a proof of onward journey with you. It would be a shame to be refused boarding because the vast majority of posters on travel forums say they didn't get asked for this.

Many airlines do the London/Bali route, so check on skyscanner for an idea of prices and routes. Also check on other sites as skyscanner doesn't always show low cost carriers.

For all the destinations, I made sure to check out the reviews on Trip Advisor and was never disappointed with a choice made based on these.

2. Bali

2.1 Kuta, Bali

I spent my first two nights in Bali in Kuta and I hated every single minute of it!

Kuta is a very busy touristy city, with westerners walking around sipping on huge bottles of beer  and shop keepers literally grabbing you to come have a look inside! Definitely not an enjoyable place to be.

The crowd in mainly young Australian surfer dudes who play hard.

Kuta beach, although famous, was less than an impressive sight for me. Dogs roaming round, people trying to sell you all sorts - drinks, surf lessons, massage, sarong, bracelets, etc... - and most importantly, the sea is more for surfing that swimming with huge swells crashing on the beach.

I cannot recommend anything there, as both accommodation and food left me feeling rather cold!

2.1 Ubud

Following the debacle of Kuta, I got a bus ticket for Ubud, a town among the rice paddies further inland.

The vibe there is definitely more to yoga and spirituality. Dreadlocked westerners walking  around barefooted with an enlightened smile on their face are a common sight. The locals are adopting a very laid back attitude, having seen it all I guess.

Rice fields in Ubud

For me Ubud was much closer to the idea I had of Bali before I came - relaxed, green, spiritual.
I even tried my hand at yoga and I discovered something I will keep in my routine for years to come.

I used Ubud as a base from where I would do day trips to visit the rest of the island. There are travel agents at every street corners with all sorts of offers so with a little bargaining is it easy to get a very through look at the rest of the island.

From what I have seen of Bali, Ubud is definitely my favourite place and I hope to visit again in the future.

You are spoiled for choice with regards to accommodation - from high end hotels such as Ubud Hanging Gardens and their amazing infinity pool over looking lush jungle, to  cheap guesthouses.
I was staying at Widia Homestay - for IDR 100,000 I had my own cottage with double bed and bathroom, with breakfast included. There are only 3 rooms so the place is quite often full. Call in advance to ensure you get a spot.

I had my first taste of yoga with the team at Radiantly Alive. I highly recommend this studio! The instructors are very knowledgeable and patient with newbies like me, and Daniel the owner is one of a kind :) It's yoga without the self righteousness you can fin in other places. They also offer a very good deal for new comers. What's not to love!

Food places are plentiful, but the best ones for me where Dewa Warung, Warung Ibu Oka and the best of the best - Mama's Warung

For info on what is on in Ubud, go to the Tourist Information Centre opposite Ubud Place in the town centre. You can also get tickets to the traditional dance shows there.

All sorts of activities are on offer, to suit every taste - volcano trekking to see the sunrise to white water rafting, pampering, yoga, cultural visits, etc...

3. Lombok

3.1 Gili Islands

One word - O.M.G!!!! OK that's actually 3 words, but still!

Ever imagined crystal clear waters, diner on fish just hauled out of the water, swimming with turtles and little fishes coming in for a nip? Then welcome to the Gilis :)

These 3 little dusting of sand just off the north western coast of Lombok are bound to blow your socks away each in their own way.

• Gili Trawangan

The biggest of the 3, it is the party island. Not so much my cup of tea, but why not?
Expect crowds of 20-somethings hanging around during the day and downing Bintang like water at night.

Gili T viewed from Gili Meno

• Gili Meno

The smallest of the 3, it is very quiet - and I mean VERY... I went there for a day and OK, I know it was low season, but the place felt eerily empty. They say it is the honeymoon island and I guess apart from losing yourself in the eyes of your other half, well there is not much to do!
Cheap accommodation can be found at Blue Coral.

• Gili Air

An afternoon in Gili Air

The closest to Lombok and a nice balance between party and chilling out. This is where I stayed with my travel buddy for 2 weeks.

The ambiance is laid back, the locals are very friendly, the fish and seafood are fresh and the snorkeling is just amazing. You only need to wade in from the shore to see all sorts of coral formations, fishes and turtles!

My favourite place in Indonesia by far!!!

Welcome to Scallywags :)

I stayed at Segar Villages, just outside the main touristy cluster. I shared a bungalow complete with breakfast, outdoor bathroom and waterfall shower!

You should definitely check out Scallywags if you make it to Gili Air. The best brownies and apple crumble EVER.

3.2 Kuta, Lombok

Was nice but felt strangely empty. The beach is lined with cafes and restaurants but apart from a few places, everywhere was deserted. I am not sure whether it was because I went during low season or if the place is always like this. The upside of this is that we had the place for ourselves and could get to chat to the locals.

Kids playing at Kuta Beach

The Kuta beach is nice, but at closer look, not so interesting - packs of dogs are roaming around, doing their business on the beach... Gross! Walk further away or hire a scooter and you come to the most beautiful beached I have seen so far. White sand, dramatic scenery and view on the surf - just sit back and relax :)

Mawin Beach, surfers paradise

I stayed at Seger Reef, at the end of the Kuta strip. I shared a bungalow with a friend - two very big single beds, bathroom attached, fan and breakfast for a very reasonable IDR 130,000. Again. this was low season, so expect prices to inflate in June-August season.
For food Mario's Warrung - the one with Super Mario's head on the sign - is the best and cheapest you can get on the strip.

One big annoyance are the kids selling little trinkets. They are really pushy and keep trying even if you keep saying no to them. As bad as it sounds, the only way to deal with it is to just ignore them :(

3. Jakarta

If you can, avoid at all cost! There is nothing good I can say about the city. It is loud, busy, polluted, car jammed most of the time and I did not feel safe going out on my own - and that was in the tourist district. To top it up, my hotel seemed to run a side business of rooms hired by the hour... I will let you guess why!

Just like Kuta, there is nothing I can recommend here. You would be better off flying into Yogyakarta for Java or even Denpasar for Bali.

4. Good to know

- Currency is the Rupiah, IDR. Bureaux de change and ATM are widely available in touristy areas.

- Electricity is 220V, with the round pins system like in continental Europe.

- Tap water is never OK to drink. Always buy bottles or refill at the hotels. Food is OK to consume everywhere, even at the road side and beach shacks. Just keep an eye out for doggy places.

- Mosquitoes are most active on the coast, but even in Ubud I got bitten, so always apply DEET 50% s and sleep under a mosquito net, preferably with the fan or air con on! Long sleeves top and bottoms are also recommended. Malaria or yellow fever are not a real risk but still try and avoid mosquitoes.

- Always keep your belongings in view and don't flash money or expensive gadgets, specially at night.

- Indonesia is an Islamic country, so keep PDA to a minimum and LGBT peeps are advised to keep a low profile. Best to pretend being just good friends if traveling as part of a same sex couple. Most places I have been, there was no problems wearing shorts, but be mindful of the local sensibilities and dress and behave accordingly.

Horse drawn cart on Gili Air

- Public transport: Bemos are mini vans linking towns and villages. I didn't have to use one during my stay so no idea if they are reliable.
Ojeks are motorbike taxi. They are everywhere and people will sometimes just stop and ask if you want a ride.
Taxis are everywhere. Most don't have a meter so you need to agree the price before hand. When meters are available, always insist to have it on as drivers tend to 'forget' to switch them on...
Best way to visit around is to hire a motorbike. Tours can be arranged with travels agents at every street corner. In the Gilis and Lombok you can also find horse drawn carts :)

Tuk tuk in Jakarta

- Doctors and hospitals - never had to use them so cannot comment.

- Sellers in Indonesia can be very pushy, specially in markets. Always always haggle - for goods, transports, travels agents and even hotel rooms!



- I always cross checked the info in the Lonely Planet with the reviews on Trip Advisor for all the accommodations I have been to and so far this has paid off well.

That's my take on Indonesia. I am happy I went but I cannot say I will definitely go back, apart maybe in Ubud and the Gilis.

Enjoy!
:)