Fiji Trip Report, Jan-Feb 2014

Bula peeps!
(That's hello in Fijian)

Fiji is a country I have always wanted to visit. Why? I don't know, I guess I was just fascinated by the name, Fiji. Sounds like paradise :) 
I have in my mind this idea of a beach paradise, with scorching sun and ice cold drinks, lovely people and laid back pace of life. So much so, I had this crazy idea of marrying someone from over there! 

Did it live up to my expectations? YES, and some more!! The place also looks eerily like Martinique - the people, the food, the scenery, everything is so similar to where I am from. People even thought I was a local and were talking to me in Fijian!

I hope this trip report will convince you Fiji is THE place to go for a relaxed holiday :)

Sunset in Taveuni

 1. Getting there

There are about 3,000 islands in Fiji, some just temporary sand banks that are only visible at low tide, others a cluster of rocks lost in the middle of the ocean. Where ever you end up though, the view is simply breath taking!

The main points of entry in Fiji are either Suva the capital or Nadi, both on the main island Viti Levu.

My first stop in Fiji was Nadi - pronounced 'Nandi' - coming from Auckland. I stayed on the main island Viti Levu then went to Taveuni and Ovalau before coming back to Nadi for my flight back to Auckland.

You will get a free 4 months visa on arrival, and proof on onward journey required to enter the country. They wouldn't even let me check in at Auckland without a ticket confirmation!

Many airlines fly into Fiji, so check on skyscanner for an idea of prices and routes. Also look on other sites as skyscanner doesn't always show low cost carriers.

For all the destinations, I made sure to check out the reviews on Trip Advisor, Hostelworld and Hostelbookers and was never disappointed with a choice made based on these.

2. Viti Levu

Nadi is nothing to shout about. It is big, busy and the only interest is the possibility of shopping. No notable sights and the craft market is a sorry little thing with a handful of stalls selling exactly the same thing.

Most hotels offer a free pick up from the airport.

Not many budget options, aside of the area around Wailoaloa Beach. The rest is all high end resorts with the prices that go with. I stayed at Bamboo Hostel not far from the airport for FJD 20 a night in a 6-bed female dorm or FJD 12 in a 16-bed dorms. They also have private rooms available but these were out of my budget. Loads of free activities on offer, but everything is on Fiji time where 2pm is the same as 5pm! The tradition of kava is enforced every night :)
A little more flashpacker style is Smugglers just down the road.
As the hostels, hotels and resort are a bit out of the way, expect to pay a premium on all food and drinks. Best to stock up at the supermarket. 

On the way back to Nadi at the end of my trip, I stopped a few nights at the Beachouse resort, a couple of hours away from Suva on the Coral Coast in the south of Viti Levu. I have got very mixed feelings about the place...

Beachouse slumber
And yes - I am in a hammock :)

Pros: the beach is gorgeous, the atmosphere relaxed and the surfing/paddle boarding/kayaking is enough to keep you busy. There is a pool - clean - and a collection of hammocks dotted around the grounds. Afternoon tea is served everyday at 3.30pm and the freshly baked scones are a delight! In the evenings there are more activities, this time involving copious amount of alcohol being consumed...

Cons: I stayed in the dorms and got bitten by BED BUGS for the first time in 14 months of travel!! It seems only the dorms were infested, not the private rooms. Definitely put a damper on my enthusiasm :(

3. Taveuni

A long 21hrs ferry journey north west of the main island is Taveuni. It is close to Vanua Levu, the second largest land mass in Fiji.
Taveuni is also called the island garden as is provides much of the fruits and vegetables on offer on Vanua Levu and Viti Levu. It is a green and lush place, however I spent more time underwater than above so I haven't really visited much of the island!

Diving was the main reason I came to Fiji and Taveuni was to be the place I got a good soaking :)

Dolphins at the Rainbow Reef

This is one of the top 10 places to go underwater, and the Rainbow Reef id the reason why. A long stretch of reef between the south of Vanua Levu and Taveuni the Rainbow Reef is so called because of its colourful display of soft coral. Turtles and reef sharks are regular visitors and the White Wall is just an amazing sight when the tide is right. Dolphins, whale sharks and even sometimes manta rays can also be spotted in the area.

Overland sights include:

• The date line monument, showing where the 180 meridian crosses the island making it effectively possible to stand between today and tomorrow and go back in time with a simple hop
• The water slides, a natural slide made of smooth rock
• The waterfalls

Further afield you can visit Nanuku island for an overnight trip or Qamea island for some sleek surfing in Maqai.
Unfortunately my budget got a serious dent with all the diving so I will have to come back for Nanuku and Maqai... such a tough life!


Taveuni can be reached by flight from either Nadi or Suva or via the overnight slow ferry ride from Suva. I took the ferry route. There is a choice of either 1st class air-con reclining seat area or the 2nd class air-con no reclining seat sleep on the floor area! If you go first class, it is possible to request for a small fee a mattress with bed sheets and pillow for the night. 2nd class is ok though - I did it on both legs of the journey. Just remember to take something to sleep on and a jumper as the air-con goes down to freezing levels in the night! There is also a restaurant on board and showers are available to freshen up in the morning.

Dinner at Tramonto - Taro chips,
pan fried fish and coconut spinach

As with the rest of Fiji, Taveuni isn't really budget traveler friendly. I stayed at the Maravu Plantation, the only backpacker of the island and still known under its old name Tuvununu. It is a converted 5 stars hotel which offers dorms for FJD 35 B&B. Double rooms are also available for FDJ 70 so if you have got a travel buddy it would be a much better option. Food was a very westernised version of Fijian fare but just 10min down the road is Tramonto,  a very good locally owned restaurant. The owners are absolutely lovely, the food is amazing and the view at sunset will leave you all thoughtful!

I was diving with the friendly crew of Taveuni Dive. I would really recommend them as the service offered is first class and safety is not taken lightly. If you happen to go there, say hi to Mila the German/Canadian/Fijian dive instructor. She's proper bonkers and a pleasure to dive with :)
I also went one day with another company, Taveuni Ocean Sports. Both operations are comparable. Dives can either be organised by contacting the shops individually or via your hotel.

4. Ovalau

Still a bit groggy from the 21hrs ferry journey back to the main island from Taveuni, I decided to hop onto another bus/ferry combo for later the same day to go to Levuka on the island of Ovalau. Levuka is the former capital of Fiji, before the government moved to Suva in the 80s. Now Levuka is a sleepy little village with a UNESCO World Heritage status since 2013.

Levuka's main street

Looking at Levuka now, it is rather difficult to imagine it being the capital of the country until the late 19th century - it is not much more than a main street these days!

What Levuka does not have in terms of night time activity, it more than makes up for it with a very laid back and relaxing atmosphere. Go there with a good book and have a wander around to see the historical building, then go back to your room for a good nap :)

The only backpacker in town is New Mavida Lodge a short walk from the bus station. There is one fan dorm - no bunks - and the rest are air-con double bedrooms. The place is spotless and the bathroom is inside the dorm, with boys and girls facilities. I stayed there nights and I was on my own for most of it. The dorm is FJD 25 B&B. And I even got a snazzy haircut for FJD 5!

5. The Yasawas and Mamanucas Island Groups

With only one month staying in Fiji, I run out of time before I was ready to head west to the Mamanucas and Yasawas Islands. It is possible to visit this area on a day trip but then you would not get a real view of the islands, only the touristy bits.
This is not how I travel - I want to be able to spend some time in the same place rather than change island every night and only see the resort. The problem is that the western islands are very much resort based, not so much like the east where the independent traveler can go around on her own.
I therefore made the decision to skip the Yasawas and Mamanucas all together. I got to experience a slice of the 'real' Fji in Taveuni and Ovalu so the picture perfect beaches of the resorts in the west held no pressing urge to visit for me.

6. Good to know

- Currency is the Fijian Dollar, FJD. Bureaux de change are available is most resorts and in big towns as well as ATM. When going to islands, it is best to withdraw some cash in Nadi and Suva.

- Electricity is 220V, with the flat slanted pins system like in New Zealand and Australia.

- Tap water is usually OK to drink, however I had a runny stomach episode after the water turned brown following a storm when I was there so I started buying bottled water. Not very eco-friendly but definitely tummy-friendly!
Food is OK to consume everywhere, but there are not many road side or beach shacks. It is usually resort or restaurant food. Keep an eye out for doggy places.

- Mosquitoes are pretty much everywhere, so always apply DEET 50%. Mosquito screens are usually on the windows. Long sleeves top and bottoms are also recommended.

- Bed bugs can be a real nuisance, but they are not sensitive to DEET. The only was to avoid them is to check for traces in the beds. If in doubt, move on as they can get in your bags and go back home with you!

- Always keep your belongings in view and don't flash money or expensive gadgets, specially at night.

- Fiji is a rather patriarchal country, so keep PDA to a minimum and LGBT peeps are advised to keep a low profile. Best to pretend being just good friends if traveling as part of a same sex couple. That said, I came in contact with many gay people, one even at a church event, and there was no issues.

- Dress wise, be mindful of the local sensibilities and dress and behave accordingly. Ladies, you will need a sulu - local sarong - when entering a village.

- Public transport: inter city bus and mini van travel was by far the easiest and cheapest, although internal flights can be dirt cheap too! You can just flag down a bus or mini van and pay accordingly to your destination.
Taxis are everywhere in Nadi and Suva. Most don't have a meter so you need to agree the price before hand. When meters are available, always insist to have it on as drivers tend to 'forget' to switch them on...

- Doctors and hospitals - never had to use them so cannot comment.

- I always cross checked the info on Trip Advisor with Hostelworld and Hostelbookers for all the accommodations I have been to and so far this has paid off well.

That's my summary for Fiji. It really is a beautiful country, with lovely people. If my budget was not already so stretched, I would have stayed longer there. I will definitely come back one day, but during the manta rays season and I will also do the shark dive :)

Evening at the Methodist Church in Levuka

Vinaka vaka levu!
:)

Malaysia Trip Report - Apr - May 2013

Hello peeps!

Apa kabar? It's been a loooong while in the coming there it is - my Malayisa Trip Report :)

This will be only for my first stay in Malaysia in May-June. The summary of my stay in Mantanani Island volunteering with Camps International will be the topic of a separate post.

The Petronas Towers, an iconic element of the skyline in Kuala Lumpur

 1. Getting there

Main points of entry in Malaysia from London are Kuala Lumpur (KL) in the Peninsula, Kota Kinabalu (KK) and Kuchin in Borneo, although you might have at least one stopover en route for the Borneo destinations. Most airlines will have a connecting flight either in Dubai, Hong Kong or, Singapore.
My first stop in Malaysia was Melaka coming from Singapore, so I got the bus there.

You will get a free 90 days visa on arrival, whether coming by plane or crossing land borders. No proof on onward journey required to enter the country.

Many airlines do the London/KL route, so check on skyscanner for an idea of prices and routes. Air Asia is also a good bet when traveling from other countries in South East Asia. Also check on other sites as skyscanner doesn't always show low cost carriers.

For all the destinations, I made sure to check out the reviews on Trip Advisor, Hostelworld and Hostelbookers and was never disappointed with a choice made based on these.

2. Melaka

My first stop in Malaysia, coming from Singapore by ViP bus.The journey was rather uneventful - I slept most of the way! A couple of toilet stops as well as the border crossing stop were more than enough to keep my bladder happy :)

One notable sight though - palm oil trees were everywhere! This was my first encounter with deforestation on a massive scale to make way for these oil plantations.

The bus station in Melaka is away from the town centre and the taxi there cost 30 MYR - the bus is just a few ringgits.

The first thing I noticed arriving at the bus station was a massive Tesco - that was rather unexpected! Actually, I really didn't think I would find such a level of development at all - I even bought period pads from the supermarket before leaving Singapore, thinking Malaysia would be just like Indonesia where choice in this particular genre is limited to the 'uncomfortable' variety.

These little pedicabs are all the furor in Melaka

Melaka in itself is a large-ish town. There are the historical sights downtown, two luxurious malls facing each other, countless 7-Elevens and ATMs. Again, the image I had in mind was completely wrong!

My first taste of Malay food was amazing - nasi lemak, aka coconut rice and toppings, from a street stall not far from my accommodation. That's all it took to make me fall in love with this country :)

There are several bus companies doing the route Singapore to Melaka, most of them clustered in the Golden Mile Complex not far from Jalan Sultan. Prices are very similar, sometimes you get a pick up from town rather than the Complex. I got a ViP bus, set up 1+2 seats per row and I got a single seat at not extra cost. 

Christ Church

Loads of choice with regards to accommodation in Melaka. I stayed at Apa Kaba Home & Stay not far from Christ Church - for 30 MYR I had a single bed in a small room, shared toilet/bathroom, breakfast included. The owner was really helpful with map, info and recommendations.

For activities, I went to the Baba-Nonya Heritage Museum. It was a tour of a traditional house used by a Strait Chinese family back in the old days. The Stadthuys and Christ Church were rather impressive and well preserved. Across the river is Jonker Street and it's Sunday Night Market, with souvenirs and food. The Menara Taming Sari is a 360 viewing deck that will take you for 15min for great views over the city.

3. Kuala Lumpur

KL... After Singapore, my 2nd favourite city in South East Asia! Why? It's big, it's busy, it's multicultural, it's a food feast and it feels safe to walk around, even late.

I got the bus from Melaka. Again, many bus companies doing the route, prices within the same range. Another uneventful journey where I slept most of the way.

Yes I do :)

Loads to do in KL - the Petronas Twin Towers are an obvious must, although rather expensive to go on top. A much cheaper alternative is the KL Tower which gives 360deg views over the city. Shopping for (fake) designer items is to be had at the Petaling Street Market in Chinatown. They are tough at haggling down, but don't let up, they will eventually go down on the price. Despite all the market is only fake stuff, it is still very good quality and for the price you end up paying, it stays a very good deal.

Food wise - there is plenty to satisfy even the pickiest eater in KL. Malay, Chinese and Indian food places are everywhere and you can't go very wrong when it is a s cheap as that!

FYI, there are four bus stations in KL, each serving different areas of the coutry:
1. the southern terminal Terminal Bersepadu Selatan (TBS) at Bandar Tasik LRT station serves all routes to/from the south, so this is where I arrived coming from Melaka.
2. the town terminal Puduraya Sentral Bus Terminal is not far from Chinatown and serves routes to/from the north.
3. Duta Bus Terminal is also for buses mainly going to the north but most of the bus companies are at Puduraya. Worth double checking when booking the agency is you're not buying your ticket directly from the station.
4. Pekeliling Bus Terminal serves the routes to/from the east coast. Nearest LRT Station: Titiwangsa Station on the monorail line.

You are spoiled for choice with regards to accommodation - from high end hotels such as Traders with their amazing view over KLCC and the Petronas Towers, to  cheap hostels.
I stayed at both Traders, courtesy of a very generous friend who offered to share her room, and BackHome, a high spec hostel between Chinatown and Little India.

4. Cameron Highlands

Lush, green and rolling views of tea shrubs

I only stayed a couple of nights in Tana Rata, the main stop for the Cameron Highlands. The town itself is rather unremarkable, the main interest being the numerous walks in the area as well as tea plantations you can visit.

I took the opportunity to sample Malaysia's famous Teh Tarik during a visit to the Boh Tea Estate :)

Only a handful of hostel, with mixed reviews. I stayed at Eight Mentigi Guesthouse. I had my own room, shared facilities, for 30MYR, but you could touch both sides of the room with arms stretched out! It was clean and safe though, so cannot complain.

5. Penang

If KL is my 2nd favourite place in South East Asia, then Penang sure is a close 3rd! A bit cliche, but this is definitely the food capital of Malaysia. I stayed mainly in Georgetown, with a day trip round the island to see the other sights the island has to offer.

Sunset in Georgetown

You cannot go hungry in Georgetown - Mee Goreng (fried noodles), Fish Ball Koay Teow Soup, Asam Laksa (a coconut based soup with noodles and an assortment of yummy topings), Cendol (the weirdest ever ice dessert, with red kidney beans and sweet corn???), Curry Mee (noodles in a curry sauces), all sorts of finger licking good Indian dishes and the world famous Char Kway Teow (flat noodles stir fried with cockles, pork meat, suasages, eggs - looks mean but tastes awesome!). Needless to say I tried everything, more than once...

Street art in Georgetown

Street art is also a big thing in Georgetown, with many mural on display. Just pick up a map, pack some water, put sunscreen on and off you!

There are many hostels and guesthouses in Georgetown. I stayed at Syok, a recently opened hostel at the time of travel, in Chulia Street. I was mostly empty and some bits still needed polishing off, but overall a very good place to stay, close to the night markets but quiet. At 48MYR a night in the mixed dorms it is definitely more flashpacker than backpacker, but they have deals going if you book a few nights in a row.

6. Sabah

• City side in Kota Kinabalu

Chicken butt... I swear I didn't know!

KK is a big city but it felt a lot more human scale than KL. I spent most of my time eat yet again, this time at the night market. All manner of seafood is on offer and cooked from fresh. Just point, pay and be ready to be blown away!

Most people come to KK to climb up mount Kinabalu. It is a tough undertaking, not for the faint hearted and a permit needs to be organised. No permit, no guide - and going alone is a one way ticket to a very early grave.

I stayed in the dorms at Masda Backpacker, the main interest being the all day breakfast. A 6-bed female dorm cost 35MYR a night. It is clean and close to the night market and the Sunday market.

• Wild side in the jungle

Misty morning on
the Kinabatangan River

From KK I booked a 3D2N tour to go in the jungle along the Kinabatangan river, in the east part of Sabah. I saw a plenty of wild life, including a pygmy elephant, but no elusive man of the forest, the wild orang outan.

After the jungle, I made my way to Sandakan before flying back to KK to catch a flight to the Philipines.

The package in the jungle also included accommodation in dorm style rooms so this will depend which company you book with. I found that the prices dropped a bit if booking from Sandakan compared to KK.
In Sandakan I stayed at Harbourside Backpackers for 25MYR a night. Clean and conveniently situated in the town centre and not far from the market. They also have a very good DVD selection!
Check out the Malaysian Airlines website for bargain fares from KK to Sandakan or Lahad Datu - the short flight is a much more interesting option than the 6hrs bus journey to/from KK!

7. Tioman Island

Cute little place off the East coast of Peninsular Malaysia, with all surrounding waters declared marine park and reserve. The inland rainforest is also a protected area and there is a very nice walk from Tetek to Juara, the only touristy area on the east coast.

The beach in Juara

I spent a little under a week on the island diving, diving and diving a bit more :)

The main drag is the main village of Tetek on the west coast. There is a further backpackery strip at Air Batang aka ABC, a short taxi ride followed by a 20 walk from Tetek.

The ambiance is laid back, the locals very friendly. Fish and seafood are fresh but relatively expensive, considering this is an island. There is a duty free shop on the island where you can find beer almost cheaper than water!

Diving is the main attraction here obviously, with a variety of dive sites available, from reefs to wrecks, to suit all abilities. Snorkeling from the shore is just as rewarding an experience. Just grab you mask and snorkel and jump in!

I stayed at Cheers Cottages, a short walk from the ferry terminal. I had a double room with shared facilities for 30MYR. Cheaper accommodation can be found in ABC, but be aware you will only get what you pay for...
Food wise, the many little restaurants offer good food, relatively inexpensive unless you go for the seafood BBQ.
The cheapest way to get to the island is the ferry from Mersing on the east cosat, but you can also fly in from KL and Singapore in the tiniest ever plane - hold onto your knickers for a very bumpy ride!
Diving was with Tioman Dive Centre, a small operation in Tetek. Lovely people, clear safety briefing and amazing dives.

8. Good to know

- Currency is the Malaysian Ringgit, MYR. Bureaux de change and ATM are widely available in most towns. Only 1 ATM on Tioman when I was there - not so good when running out of cash during the w.e...

- Electricity is 220V, with the round pins system like in continental Europe.

- Tap water is never OK to drink. Always buy bottles or refill at the hotels. Food is OK to consume everywhere, even at the road side and beach shacks. Just keep an eye out for doggy places.

- Mosquitoes are pretty much everywhere, even got bitten in KL, so always apply DEET 50%. Mosquito are provided. Long sleeves top and bottoms are also recommended as malaria is a risk.

- Always keep your belongings in view and don't flash money or expensive gadgets, specially at night.

- Malaysia is an Islamic country, so keep PDA to a minimum and LGBT peeps are advised to keep a low profile. Best to pretend being just good friends if traveling as part of a same sex couple. Most places I have been, there was no problems wearing shorts, but be mindful of the local sensibilities and dress and behave accordingly.

- Public transport: inter city bus travel was by far the easiest and cheapest, although internal flights with Malaysian Airlines can be dirt cheap too! When buying bus tickets, best to go to the bus station directly as hostels/travel agents will add a commission to the actual price of the ticket.
Taxis are everywhere in the cities. Most don't have a meter so you need to agree the price before hand. When meters are available, always insist to have it on as drivers tend to 'forget' to switch them on...

- Doctors and hospitals - never had to use them so cannot comment. Healthcare is supposed to be very good in KL.

- Always always haggle - for goods, transports, travels agents and even hotel rooms!

- I always cross checked the info in the Lonely Planet with the reviews on Trip Advisor, Hostelworld and Hostelbooker for all the accommodations I have been to and so far this has paid off well.

That's my summary for Malaysia. It really is a beautiful country, with lovely people. In my initial plan, I only allocated 3wks to go through peninsular Malaysia - I was worried that being a single female traveler I would get a lot of hassle in this muslim country.
I ended up staying 5wks and coming back for a further 8wks, so it cannot be all that bad! I was even considering staying on for a lot longer and tried to get a job with the company I did some volunteer work with, but that's a story for another post!

Sama sama!
:)

Martinique Trip Report

Hello peeps!

A few days left in Martinique before I fly back to the UK for a few weeks. Despite my initial doubts, I had an amazing time here. What's the big deal you might ask? Well, going back home for two months meant I was surrounded by the family 24/7- even while sleeping! No escaping it, but I live to tell the tale...

 1. Getting there
 

There are no direct flights to Martinique from London, so I flew BA for London/Paris then Air France for Paris/Martinique. My original Paris/Martinique was a direct one, but when I got to Paris, I was offered €150 to change to a Paris/Guadeloupe then Guadeloupe/Martinique. Despite the delays and subsequent luggage no show in Martinique following the flight change, it was not a bad deal.

 Other airlines also do the Paris/Martinique route, with various degrees of schedule reliability. That said, Air France was also rather bad on time keeping during December, with flights being delayed almost every day!

Same immigration requirements as for France as this is a French territory. So good news if you hold a European passport, otherwise have a look here for what is needed:

http://www.diplomatie.gouv.fr/en/france/coming-to-france/getting-a-visa/

2. Accommodation

I did not need to look for accommodation as I was staying with my family. As other cousins and their children were also coming for the Xmas/NY holidays, I had my first taste of sharing a bunk-bedded room with up to 3 small kids at a time - ear plugs were liberally applied throughout the stay!

Colourful beach hut, built by an ex convict - no available for hire!

There is choice between high end hotels, guesthouses, rentals and camping.Accommodation in Martinique is usually expensive. The only way to keep costs low is to book ahead. Have a look here for an idea of what is on offer:

http://www.tripadvisor.com.au/Hotels-g147327-Martinique-Hotels.html

3. Weather
 

December and January are within the dry season - called Careme here - but stay fairly windy with the occasional burst of rain. During my whole stay, temperatures were in the mid to high 20s, although some nights were a touch on the chilly side with a "low" and windy 22-23 degC - all still very acceptable!

The rain was never an all-day affair and would leaving plenty of day-time hours to do stuff.The water temperature was well within the mid 20s.

4. Things to do

Thanks to the good weather, there was plenty to do during my stay, aside of eating a feast at every family gathering for Xmas Eve and Day, NY Eve and Day, birthdays, Sundays and every other possible occasion!

The beach at Anse D'Arlet

The beach was my favourite destination, with a swim every other day or so, pending family gatherings. I stayed mainly on the beaches in the south of the island. There the beaches are with white sand, as opposed to the northern part, where the beaches are with black volcanic sand, glittering with tiny little crystals.

Inside the Aquabulle

   

I did an outing on a glass bottomed boat in Le Marin. The Aquabulle (http://www.aquabulle.com/) is unique in offering this concept and it is well worth it! The hull of the boat is like a submarine and you get to see all the little fishes swimming around and there a swim at the end. This marketed towards families with small children - but I really enjoyed it :) 

                                                               

I have always wanted to sail in the Grenadines Islands, so I set out to find a boat doing the route and looking for crew. I finally found a guy, however the plan fell through in the end - being the only female on board, I did not feel very comfortable sharing a rather small space with 3 other guys. I had cold sweat just thinking about bathroom logistics!!

Cruises up or down in the Caribbean from Martinique can be done either aboard a proper cruiser - needs to be booked before arriving here for best deals - or by getting a lift from a private owner. It is rather easy to find boats looking for crew, you just need to keep an eye on the boards at the harbour in Le Marin, or simply talk to people on the pontoons. For a proper job with a charter agency, you need to have some sort of certificate saying you know the basics of sailing, and be registered with the harbour authority.

To soften the disappointment of the missed cruise, I spent a day sailing in the bay opposite Le Robert, in the north-east. The weather was great, sun shining from the word go, friendly crew and a "rum baptism"!

Many companies on the market offering to take you for half a day/day/w.e. Check out http://www.choubouloute.fr/ for a list of what is on offer.

I did mine in Le Robert with the Bwa Drese guys: (https://www.facebook.com/catamaran.bwadrese)

Lunch time stop at a mangrove beach

Another seaside activity: sea kayaking. I did this in a transparent boat! The visit took us out on the reef, then back in the mangrove and finished with a swim on the way back home. Simply amazing!    

 I did my tour with http://fleurdo.com/ but there are a number of companies offering half day/day outings on the classic kayaks or you can just rent one individually. Good listings on http://www.choubouloute.fr/



There are plenty of hiking/trekking/canyoning trails crisscrossing the island, most self-guided though. I could not get a group together to do one of the big trails unfortunately, but I did a short hike in the mangrove. Now that was a little bit smelly and I almost lost a boot in the mud, but was an amazing sight!

Have a look here for more info on the trails available on the island: http://www.onf.fr/martinique/sommaire/onf

Martinique is also a favourite diving spot, with a numbers of ships wrecks close to shore as well as reefs. I did a dive with Nathalie from Kalinago Diving Centre in Sainte Anne (http://www.kalinagoplongee.fr/english/index.html). I was very nervous at the beginning, but Nathalie handled everything very professionally making the whole experience absolutely amazing!

There are countless other activities available, indoors, outdoors, seaside, land bound and air borne! Please check the official website for more info: http://www.martinique.org/

5. Good to know

- Being a French territory, the Euro is the currency in Martinique. ATM are widely available. There are bureaux de change at the airport and main touristic hot spots, and you can also change money at the post office.

- Electricity is 220V, with the round pins system.

- Tap water is OK to drink. Food is OK to consume everywhere, even at the road side and beach shacks. Just keep an eye out for doggy places.

- Mosquitoes are everywhere and very persistent little buggers. Keep your DEET 50% spray handy and sleep under a mosquito net, preferably with the fan or air con on! Long sleeves top and bottoms are also recommended. There is no malaria or yellow fever in Martinique, but the dengue fever is still very much present, so try and avoid mosquitoes!

- Although there are no major issues with safety on the island, keep your eyes open and your belongings where you can see them. Also night time can be a bit rowdy, specially in the capital Fort de France, as alcohol flows more than freely!

- The island is definitely not gay friendly. The majority of the local LGBT is closeted, some even finding it easier to keep a low profile by having "normal" families and hooking up with like minded people in very low key parties and meet ups. Public displays of affection and physical contact should be avoided for same sex couples, as well as trying to chat up a local unless you know for a fact this will be positively received - the response could otherwise be violent.

A couple of bars and one B&B in the touristy hot spot of Pointe du Bout are openly geared up towards the LGBT community. Outside of these, best to pretend being just good friends if traveling as a couple.

It is not all doom and gloom though - the younger generation is somewhat more tolerant, but there is still an awful lot to do on the topic.

- Public transport: in one word - shambolic! Unless you are happy staying put in the area around your accommodation, you need to hire a car, and that does not come cheap. There is a system of mini buses centered on Fort de France, the capital, meaning you might have to go there first to catch another bus to you chosen destination. There are no set schedules, the buses leaving whenever they are full. No night buses, last ones are usually around 5pm. If you are in a big group, it might be interesting to hire a mini bus for the day, but you will need to negotiate hard on the price! Taxis are expensive, so best avoided unless absolutely necessary.

- Doctors and hospitals are French standard, so you will be taken good care off should you need an medical assistance.

- People in Martinique are very laid back, meaning service can sometimes be veeeery slow! Only way to deal with it is to just keep your cool, getting all worked up will not make things go any quicker :)

That's it on Martinique. Hope you will come visit some day, it is a very nice little corner of the world.

Warm regards from Martinique