Hello peeps!
After two months in Indonesia visiting Bali, the Gili Islands, Lombok and finally Jakarta, I finally get my hands on a computer with a reliable internet connection! It has been a while, and I know you have missed me :)
The summary of my stay in Indonesia: I had the chance to experience the best and the worst backpacking can offer and I cannot say how lucky I feel.
The best because I got to meet absolutely lovely people, see the mist amazing sky at night, see turtles so close that I could reach out and touch them and much more.
The worst because I was unfortunate enough to witness prostitution linked to mass tourism.
So without further ado, let's get into the technical stuff about Indonesia. I will however focus on the parts I visited, leaving the rest for you to explore separately.
1. Getting there
After two months in Indonesia visiting Bali, the Gili Islands, Lombok and finally Jakarta, I finally get my hands on a computer with a reliable internet connection! It has been a while, and I know you have missed me :)
The summary of my stay in Indonesia: I had the chance to experience the best and the worst backpacking can offer and I cannot say how lucky I feel.
The best because I got to meet absolutely lovely people, see the mist amazing sky at night, see turtles so close that I could reach out and touch them and much more.
The worst because I was unfortunate enough to witness prostitution linked to mass tourism.
So without further ado, let's get into the technical stuff about Indonesia. I will however focus on the parts I visited, leaving the rest for you to explore separately.
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| Indonesia |
There are many points of entry in Indonesia from London, covering all the main islands of the archipelago. Most airlines will have a connecting flight either in Dubai, Hong Kong, Singapore or Jakarta.
My first stop in Indonesia was Bali so I flew there to Denpasar airport with Cathay Pacific via Hong Kong.
You will need a visa to visit Indonesia. Most people simply pick up a 30-day visa on arrival at the airport. Costs 25 USD and can be renewed once for a further 30 days. Follow this link for details of what is needed for the VOA.
Or you can choose to apply in the UK for a 60-day visa, which can also be renewed for an extra 30 days in the country. Have a look here for the requirements for the 60-day visa.
One thing that should be noted - some airlines, and Cathay Pacific is among them, will require a proof of onward journey before even issuing a boarding pass. Looking at the emabssy website, the proof of onward journey is actually a requirement for all travelers entering the country. Some people don't get asked, some do - I was, but I came prepared with a print out of a booking for a cheap flight on AirAsia to Singapore.
My advice - have a proof of onward journey with you. It would be a shame to be refused boarding because the vast majority of posters on travel forums say they didn't get asked for this.
Many airlines do the London/Bali route, so check on skyscanner for an idea of prices and routes. Also check on other sites as skyscanner doesn't always show low cost carriers.
For all the destinations, I made sure to check out the reviews on Trip Advisor and was never disappointed with a choice made based on these.
My first stop in Indonesia was Bali so I flew there to Denpasar airport with Cathay Pacific via Hong Kong.
You will need a visa to visit Indonesia. Most people simply pick up a 30-day visa on arrival at the airport. Costs 25 USD and can be renewed once for a further 30 days. Follow this link for details of what is needed for the VOA.
Or you can choose to apply in the UK for a 60-day visa, which can also be renewed for an extra 30 days in the country. Have a look here for the requirements for the 60-day visa.
One thing that should be noted - some airlines, and Cathay Pacific is among them, will require a proof of onward journey before even issuing a boarding pass. Looking at the emabssy website, the proof of onward journey is actually a requirement for all travelers entering the country. Some people don't get asked, some do - I was, but I came prepared with a print out of a booking for a cheap flight on AirAsia to Singapore.
My advice - have a proof of onward journey with you. It would be a shame to be refused boarding because the vast majority of posters on travel forums say they didn't get asked for this.
Many airlines do the London/Bali route, so check on skyscanner for an idea of prices and routes. Also check on other sites as skyscanner doesn't always show low cost carriers.
For all the destinations, I made sure to check out the reviews on Trip Advisor and was never disappointed with a choice made based on these.
2. Bali
2.1 Kuta, Bali
I spent my first two nights in Bali in Kuta and I hated every single minute of it!
Kuta is a very busy touristy city, with westerners walking around sipping on huge bottles of beer and shop keepers literally grabbing you to come have a look inside! Definitely not an enjoyable place to be.
The crowd in mainly young Australian surfer dudes who play hard.
Kuta beach, although famous, was less than an impressive sight for me. Dogs roaming round, people trying to sell you all sorts - drinks, surf lessons, massage, sarong, bracelets, etc... - and most importantly, the sea is more for surfing that swimming with huge swells crashing on the beach.
I cannot recommend anything there, as both accommodation and food left me feeling rather cold!
2.1 Ubud
Following the debacle of Kuta, I got a bus ticket for Ubud, a town among the rice paddies further inland.
The vibe there is definitely more to yoga and spirituality. Dreadlocked westerners walking around barefooted with an enlightened smile on their face are a common sight. The locals are adopting a very laid back attitude, having seen it all I guess.
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| Rice fields in Ubud |
For me Ubud was much closer to the idea I had of Bali before I came - relaxed, green, spiritual.
I even tried my hand at yoga and I discovered something I will keep in my routine for years to come.
I used Ubud as a base from where I would do day trips to visit the rest of the island. There are travel agents at every street corners with all sorts of offers so with a little bargaining is it easy to get a very through look at the rest of the island.
From what I have seen of Bali, Ubud is definitely my favourite place and I hope to visit again in the future.
You are spoiled for choice with regards to accommodation - from high end hotels such as Ubud Hanging Gardens and their amazing infinity pool over looking lush jungle, to cheap guesthouses.
I was staying at Widia Homestay - for IDR 100,000 I had my own cottage with double bed and bathroom, with breakfast included. There are only 3 rooms so the place is quite often full. Call in advance to ensure you get a spot.
I had my first taste of yoga with the team at Radiantly Alive. I highly recommend this studio! The instructors are very knowledgeable and patient with newbies like me, and Daniel the owner is one of a kind :) It's yoga without the self righteousness you can fin in other places. They also offer a very good deal for new comers. What's not to love!
Food places are plentiful, but the best ones for me where Dewa Warung, Warung Ibu Oka and the best of the best - Mama's Warung
For info on what is on in Ubud, go to the Tourist Information Centre opposite Ubud Place in the town centre. You can also get tickets to the traditional dance shows there.
All sorts of activities are on offer, to suit every taste - volcano trekking to see the sunrise to white water rafting, pampering, yoga, cultural visits, etc...
3. Lombok
3.1 Gili Islands
One word - O.M.G!!!! OK that's actually 3 words, but still!
Ever imagined crystal clear waters, diner on fish just hauled out of the water, swimming with turtles and little fishes coming in for a nip? Then welcome to the Gilis :)
These 3 little dusting of sand just off the north western coast of Lombok are bound to blow your socks away each in their own way.
Expect crowds of 20-somethings hanging around during the day and downing Bintang like water at night.
Cheap accommodation can be found at Blue Coral.
Ever imagined crystal clear waters, diner on fish just hauled out of the water, swimming with turtles and little fishes coming in for a nip? Then welcome to the Gilis :)
These 3 little dusting of sand just off the north western coast of Lombok are bound to blow your socks away each in their own way.
- Gili Trawangan
Expect crowds of 20-somethings hanging around during the day and downing Bintang like water at night.
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| Gili T viewed from Gili Meno |
- Gili Meno
Cheap accommodation can be found at Blue Coral.
- Gili Air
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| An afternoon in Gili Air |
The ambiance is laid back, the locals are very friendly, the fish and seafood are fresh and the snorkeling is just amazing. You only need to wade in from the shore to see all sorts of coral formations, fishes and turtles!
My favourite place in Indonesia by far!!!
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| Welcome to Scallywags :) |
I stayed at Segar Villages, just outside the main touristy cluster. I shared a bungalow complete with breakfast, outdoor bathroom and waterfall shower!
You should definitely check out Scallywags if you make it to Gili Air. The best brownies and apple crumble EVER.
3.2 Kuta, Lombok
Was nice but felt strangely empty. The beach is lined with cafes and restaurants but apart from a few places, everywhere was deserted. I am not sure whether it was because I went during low season or if the place is always like this. The upside of this is that we had the place for ourselves and could get to chat to the locals.
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| Kids playing at Kuta Beach |
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| Mawin Beach, surfers paradise |
I stayed at Seger Reef, at the end of the Kuta strip. I shared a bungalow with a friend - two very big single beds, bathroom attached, fan and breakfast for a very reasonable IDR 130,000. Again. this was low season, so expect prices to inflate in June-August season.
For food Mario's Warrung - the one with Super Mario's head on the sign - is the best and cheapest you can get on the strip.
One big annoyance are the kids selling little trinkets. They are really pushy and keep trying even if you keep saying no to them. As bad as it sounds, the only way to deal with it is to just ignore them :(
If you can, avoid at all cost! There is nothing good I can say about the city. It is loud, busy, polluted, car jammed most of the time and I did not feel safe going out on my own - and that was in the tourist district. To top it up, my hotel seemed to run a side business of rooms hired by the hour... I will let you guess why!
Just like Kuta, there is nothing I can recommend here. You would be better off flying into Yogyakarta for Java or even Denpasar for Bali.
- Currency is the Rupiah, IDR. Bureaux de change and ATM are widely available in touristy areas.
- Electricity is 220V, with the round pins system like in continental Europe.
- Tap water is never OK to drink. Always buy bottles or refill at the hotels. Food is OK to consume everywhere, even at the road side and beach shacks. Just keep an eye out for doggy places.
- Mosquitoes are most active on the coast, but even in Ubud I got bitten, so always apply DEET 50% s and sleep under a mosquito net, preferably with the fan or air con on! Long sleeves top and bottoms are also recommended. Malaria or yellow fever are not a real risk but still try and avoid mosquitoes.
- Always keep your belongings in view and don't flash money or expensive gadgets, specially at night.
- Indonesia is an Islamic country, so keep PDA to a minimum and LGBT peeps are advised to keep a low profile. Best to pretend being just good friends if traveling as part of a same sex couple. Most places I have been, there was no problems wearing shorts, but be mindful of the local sensibilities and dress and behave accordingly.
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| Horse drawn cart on Gili Air |
Ojeks are motorbike taxi. They are everywhere and people will sometimes just stop and ask if you want a ride.
Taxis are everywhere. Most don't have a meter so you need to agree the price before hand. When meters are available, always insist to have it on as drivers tend to 'forget' to switch them on...
Best way to visit around is to hire a motorbike. Tours can be arranged with travels agents at every street corner. In the Gilis and Lombok you can also find horse drawn carts :)
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| Tuk tuk in Jakarta |
- Doctors and hospitals - never had to use them so cannot comment.
- Sellers in Indonesia can be very pushy, specially in markets. Always always haggle - for goods, transports, travels agents and even hotel rooms!
- I always cross checked the info in the Lonely Planet with the reviews on Trip Advisor for all the accommodations I have been to and so far this has paid off well.
That's my take on Indonesia. I am happy I went but I cannot say I will definitely go back, apart maybe in Ubud and the Gilis.
Enjoy!
:)
- I always cross checked the info in the Lonely Planet with the reviews on Trip Advisor for all the accommodations I have been to and so far this has paid off well.
That's my take on Indonesia. I am happy I went but I cannot say I will definitely go back, apart maybe in Ubud and the Gilis.
Enjoy!
:)
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