Fiji Trip Report, Jan-Feb 2014

Bula peeps!
(That's hello in Fijian)

Fiji is a country I have always wanted to visit. Why? I don't know, I guess I was just fascinated by the name, Fiji. Sounds like paradise :) 
I have in my mind this idea of a beach paradise, with scorching sun and ice cold drinks, lovely people and laid back pace of life. So much so, I had this crazy idea of marrying someone from over there! 

Did it live up to my expectations? YES, and some more!! The place also looks eerily like Martinique - the people, the food, the scenery, everything is so similar to where I am from. People even thought I was a local and were talking to me in Fijian!

I hope this trip report will convince you Fiji is THE place to go for a relaxed holiday :)

Sunset in Taveuni

 1. Getting there

There are about 3,000 islands in Fiji, some just temporary sand banks that are only visible at low tide, others a cluster of rocks lost in the middle of the ocean. Where ever you end up though, the view is simply breath taking!

The main points of entry in Fiji are either Suva the capital or Nadi, both on the main island Viti Levu.

My first stop in Fiji was Nadi - pronounced 'Nandi' - coming from Auckland. I stayed on the main island Viti Levu then went to Taveuni and Ovalau before coming back to Nadi for my flight back to Auckland.

You will get a free 4 months visa on arrival, and proof on onward journey required to enter the country. They wouldn't even let me check in at Auckland without a ticket confirmation!

Many airlines fly into Fiji, so check on skyscanner for an idea of prices and routes. Also look on other sites as skyscanner doesn't always show low cost carriers.

For all the destinations, I made sure to check out the reviews on Trip Advisor, Hostelworld and Hostelbookers and was never disappointed with a choice made based on these.

2. Viti Levu

Nadi is nothing to shout about. It is big, busy and the only interest is the possibility of shopping. No notable sights and the craft market is a sorry little thing with a handful of stalls selling exactly the same thing.

Most hotels offer a free pick up from the airport.

Not many budget options, aside of the area around Wailoaloa Beach. The rest is all high end resorts with the prices that go with. I stayed at Bamboo Hostel not far from the airport for FJD 20 a night in a 6-bed female dorm or FJD 12 in a 16-bed dorms. They also have private rooms available but these were out of my budget. Loads of free activities on offer, but everything is on Fiji time where 2pm is the same as 5pm! The tradition of kava is enforced every night :)
A little more flashpacker style is Smugglers just down the road.
As the hostels, hotels and resort are a bit out of the way, expect to pay a premium on all food and drinks. Best to stock up at the supermarket. 

On the way back to Nadi at the end of my trip, I stopped a few nights at the Beachouse resort, a couple of hours away from Suva on the Coral Coast in the south of Viti Levu. I have got very mixed feelings about the place...

Beachouse slumber
And yes - I am in a hammock :)

Pros: the beach is gorgeous, the atmosphere relaxed and the surfing/paddle boarding/kayaking is enough to keep you busy. There is a pool - clean - and a collection of hammocks dotted around the grounds. Afternoon tea is served everyday at 3.30pm and the freshly baked scones are a delight! In the evenings there are more activities, this time involving copious amount of alcohol being consumed...

Cons: I stayed in the dorms and got bitten by BED BUGS for the first time in 14 months of travel!! It seems only the dorms were infested, not the private rooms. Definitely put a damper on my enthusiasm :(

3. Taveuni

A long 21hrs ferry journey north west of the main island is Taveuni. It is close to Vanua Levu, the second largest land mass in Fiji.
Taveuni is also called the island garden as is provides much of the fruits and vegetables on offer on Vanua Levu and Viti Levu. It is a green and lush place, however I spent more time underwater than above so I haven't really visited much of the island!

Diving was the main reason I came to Fiji and Taveuni was to be the place I got a good soaking :)

Dolphins at the Rainbow Reef

This is one of the top 10 places to go underwater, and the Rainbow Reef id the reason why. A long stretch of reef between the south of Vanua Levu and Taveuni the Rainbow Reef is so called because of its colourful display of soft coral. Turtles and reef sharks are regular visitors and the White Wall is just an amazing sight when the tide is right. Dolphins, whale sharks and even sometimes manta rays can also be spotted in the area.

Overland sights include:

• The date line monument, showing where the 180 meridian crosses the island making it effectively possible to stand between today and tomorrow and go back in time with a simple hop
• The water slides, a natural slide made of smooth rock
• The waterfalls

Further afield you can visit Nanuku island for an overnight trip or Qamea island for some sleek surfing in Maqai.
Unfortunately my budget got a serious dent with all the diving so I will have to come back for Nanuku and Maqai... such a tough life!


Taveuni can be reached by flight from either Nadi or Suva or via the overnight slow ferry ride from Suva. I took the ferry route. There is a choice of either 1st class air-con reclining seat area or the 2nd class air-con no reclining seat sleep on the floor area! If you go first class, it is possible to request for a small fee a mattress with bed sheets and pillow for the night. 2nd class is ok though - I did it on both legs of the journey. Just remember to take something to sleep on and a jumper as the air-con goes down to freezing levels in the night! There is also a restaurant on board and showers are available to freshen up in the morning.

Dinner at Tramonto - Taro chips,
pan fried fish and coconut spinach

As with the rest of Fiji, Taveuni isn't really budget traveler friendly. I stayed at the Maravu Plantation, the only backpacker of the island and still known under its old name Tuvununu. It is a converted 5 stars hotel which offers dorms for FJD 35 B&B. Double rooms are also available for FDJ 70 so if you have got a travel buddy it would be a much better option. Food was a very westernised version of Fijian fare but just 10min down the road is Tramonto,  a very good locally owned restaurant. The owners are absolutely lovely, the food is amazing and the view at sunset will leave you all thoughtful!

I was diving with the friendly crew of Taveuni Dive. I would really recommend them as the service offered is first class and safety is not taken lightly. If you happen to go there, say hi to Mila the German/Canadian/Fijian dive instructor. She's proper bonkers and a pleasure to dive with :)
I also went one day with another company, Taveuni Ocean Sports. Both operations are comparable. Dives can either be organised by contacting the shops individually or via your hotel.

4. Ovalau

Still a bit groggy from the 21hrs ferry journey back to the main island from Taveuni, I decided to hop onto another bus/ferry combo for later the same day to go to Levuka on the island of Ovalau. Levuka is the former capital of Fiji, before the government moved to Suva in the 80s. Now Levuka is a sleepy little village with a UNESCO World Heritage status since 2013.

Levuka's main street

Looking at Levuka now, it is rather difficult to imagine it being the capital of the country until the late 19th century - it is not much more than a main street these days!

What Levuka does not have in terms of night time activity, it more than makes up for it with a very laid back and relaxing atmosphere. Go there with a good book and have a wander around to see the historical building, then go back to your room for a good nap :)

The only backpacker in town is New Mavida Lodge a short walk from the bus station. There is one fan dorm - no bunks - and the rest are air-con double bedrooms. The place is spotless and the bathroom is inside the dorm, with boys and girls facilities. I stayed there nights and I was on my own for most of it. The dorm is FJD 25 B&B. And I even got a snazzy haircut for FJD 5!

5. The Yasawas and Mamanucas Island Groups

With only one month staying in Fiji, I run out of time before I was ready to head west to the Mamanucas and Yasawas Islands. It is possible to visit this area on a day trip but then you would not get a real view of the islands, only the touristy bits.
This is not how I travel - I want to be able to spend some time in the same place rather than change island every night and only see the resort. The problem is that the western islands are very much resort based, not so much like the east where the independent traveler can go around on her own.
I therefore made the decision to skip the Yasawas and Mamanucas all together. I got to experience a slice of the 'real' Fji in Taveuni and Ovalu so the picture perfect beaches of the resorts in the west held no pressing urge to visit for me.

6. Good to know

- Currency is the Fijian Dollar, FJD. Bureaux de change are available is most resorts and in big towns as well as ATM. When going to islands, it is best to withdraw some cash in Nadi and Suva.

- Electricity is 220V, with the flat slanted pins system like in New Zealand and Australia.

- Tap water is usually OK to drink, however I had a runny stomach episode after the water turned brown following a storm when I was there so I started buying bottled water. Not very eco-friendly but definitely tummy-friendly!
Food is OK to consume everywhere, but there are not many road side or beach shacks. It is usually resort or restaurant food. Keep an eye out for doggy places.

- Mosquitoes are pretty much everywhere, so always apply DEET 50%. Mosquito screens are usually on the windows. Long sleeves top and bottoms are also recommended.

- Bed bugs can be a real nuisance, but they are not sensitive to DEET. The only was to avoid them is to check for traces in the beds. If in doubt, move on as they can get in your bags and go back home with you!

- Always keep your belongings in view and don't flash money or expensive gadgets, specially at night.

- Fiji is a rather patriarchal country, so keep PDA to a minimum and LGBT peeps are advised to keep a low profile. Best to pretend being just good friends if traveling as part of a same sex couple. That said, I came in contact with many gay people, one even at a church event, and there was no issues.

- Dress wise, be mindful of the local sensibilities and dress and behave accordingly. Ladies, you will need a sulu - local sarong - when entering a village.

- Public transport: inter city bus and mini van travel was by far the easiest and cheapest, although internal flights can be dirt cheap too! You can just flag down a bus or mini van and pay accordingly to your destination.
Taxis are everywhere in Nadi and Suva. Most don't have a meter so you need to agree the price before hand. When meters are available, always insist to have it on as drivers tend to 'forget' to switch them on...

- Doctors and hospitals - never had to use them so cannot comment.

- I always cross checked the info on Trip Advisor with Hostelworld and Hostelbookers for all the accommodations I have been to and so far this has paid off well.

That's my summary for Fiji. It really is a beautiful country, with lovely people. If my budget was not already so stretched, I would have stayed longer there. I will definitely come back one day, but during the manta rays season and I will also do the shark dive :)

Evening at the Methodist Church in Levuka

Vinaka vaka levu!
:)