An amateur's take on sociological structure of the backpacking crowd

Hello peeps!

I have now been in Bali for over a week, and a few things have already established themselves in the background noise of my travels. One of them is relating to the different kind of backpackers I have come across  so far...

Being a bit of a science geek from time to time and - most importantly - loving a good list, I have thus compiled a little guide describing the main categories of western people floating around. I am sure this list will evolve the more time I spend traveling, but I think I got the basics right so far.

So here you go, my Beginner's Guide To Identifying Specimen Of The Backpacking Crowd...

1. The Western Mystics

These little buddies are easily spotted thanks to their simple but very unique attire. Usually in their mid to late 20s, they can be seen sporting a headfull of dreadlocks, some sort of bead neckless and/or bracelet and recognizable hippie pants. Usually vegetarians if not vegans, they are fond off raw or very low processed foods and practice yoga/meditation/contemplative walking-in-the-rain. They can be very talkative with a view on anything and everything, or very introvert. The Western Mystics are also able to quote from very mysterious and little known books of Eastern wisdom.

These guys will make you see your glass full, even if it is 3/4 empty. Only downside - conversation can be a bit testing when they try to convert you to the benefits of tofu v.s meat. Nice guys though, good karma.

2. The Mid Life Crisis-ers

These guys are more difficult to spot without prior interaction as they do not have any particular external recognizable characteristics. The term "mid life" is applied very loosely here, with individuals from this population being in their mid 20s to mid 40s. Only prerequisite is having studied and worked before starting their travels. Personal life traumas are optional.

These guys are looking for meaning in their life, but not necessarily on a spiritual level. One day they looked back on their lifes and decided what they saw was not exactly what they want for themselves. They were a bit lost and decided to go away for a while to do "different" things to try reconnect with themselves and decide next steps. 

I am very much part of this group. In the last year, my life has gone a bit upside down. My long term relationship has ended up on the rocks, I am not completely satisfied with my choice of career and I need to decide where I will settle down in order to start a family. I have many questions, but few answers, but I am hoping to find myself during this trip.

3. The 18 Years Old Australians

You can spot them a mile away! They are not necesarily Australian though, but these are the most represented in this group. Always under 25 years old, traveling in packs of individuals of the same gender, they are here to party and party hard. They will mostly cluster in the seaside resorts, where alcohol flows freely and casual encounters are many. Mostly active during the night time, they can be rather loud when soaked in beer.

4. The Gone-Natives

Usually male, retired, married or living with a local. They are deeply tanned, with beards and sometimes long hair. Some of them have migrated from the Western Mystics group. These guys have found peace, and are living the dream. They speak the language, not to show off, but because it is just an everyday thing for them. They are not backpackers anymore, they have merged into the fabric of the local community.

5. The Arty Hippies

They look like the Gone-Natives, but much younger, usually in their 20s. They also speak the language, but this is only to show off. They will  sometimes sport dreadlocks and/or bead necklesses, but this is again to complete the persona. The Arty Hippie type will not hesitate to pinch cigarettes from others - they never seem to have any on them... - and smoke right next to young children while lecturing about karma and the ill effects of consuming white sugar. In my onion, these guys are to avoid as they do not seem to contribute anything useful, but rather take a lot from other.

These are the basic groups I have crossed path with so far. There are countless hybrids with traits from two or more groups, but the main characteristics will be found in these original five. I am still on the look out for more :)

Greetings from Bali.

x 

 

UK, in and out

Hello peeps!

I have been back in Maidenhead since beginning of February and plans have changed a fair bit during that time!

India had already been off the table for a while, but now Maldives has also been put aside :(

That is because the volunteering role I was trying to finalize fell through a few days ago. Reading through the info pack I got - 4 days ago (!) - from the NGO, it appeared that I need to have a CRB check done as part of the work will be with children! I was a little bit peeved off as this is a piece of information they could have communicated back in January when I first contacted them. The procedure takes 4 weeks to complete so I could have started it as soon as I arrived at the beginning of the month, but now I have no chance of getting it in time for 1st March!

A bit disappointing, but nothing that can't be turned around. I am now heading straight to Indonesia to start the 7 months long South East Asia leg of the trip.

I will be arriving in Bali next Wednesday and I can't wait to get going. Not only because of the trip itself, but because I am really suffering from the cold at the moment. In just the 2 months I was in the Caribbean, my body got completely unused to coping with cold weather. I NEED some warmth big time!!

It was nice to be back in Maidenhead for some time though. I saw a few close friends and I had loads of time to sort out travel and non travel related paperwork, tickets, hotel and read through the Lonely Planet guide a few time :)

Definitely not as rushed as I was before the trip to the Caribbean. It is just the cold buggering me - a lot!

The only thing which I did not do whilst here is the 60 days visa for Indonesia. When I looked into it, it seemed a whole lot easier to just get a 30 days visa on arrival in Bali, then renew when I am there. Much less hassle!

A few more days to go now, then the big jump! Going back to the Caribbean was not such a big stretch. I was going back to a place I know, people I know and a culture I understand. Now though, I am going into the big unknown - places, people, culture, language, all will be alien to me. Scary, but good scary.

Bring it on!

The Fabulous World of Visas - Indonesia

Hello peeps!

Third installment in the series, looking at visa procedures for Indonesia.

All the official info is available here: http://www.indonesianembassy.org.uk/consular/consular_visa.html

Citizen from Israel cannot enter Indonesia as tourist unless special authorisation from the Immigration Office and applications have to be sent directly to the Immigration Office in Indonesia.

If you have a passport from the 11 countries listed here you do not need a visa for a stay up to 30 days. You only need a valid passport and a return/onward ticket.

Citizen from the 19 countries listed here  will require approval from Immigration Office in Indonesia before traveling. The approval takes a good 6wks to be granted, then a further 6 days are needed for the visa to be issued.

Everybody else will have to go through the procedure to get either a 30-days visa on arrival or a 60-days visa to be requested before entering the country. Luckily, the procedure is a lot quicker than for the fellows on the unfortunate list of 19 above!

1. Visa on arrival

30 days, extendable once. List of countries eligible for the visa on arrival here. You will need the following:

• Passport valid for a minimum of 6 months
• Embarkation/disembarkation card provided by the airlines
• Be able to demonstrate sufficient means to cover the duration of heir stay in Indonesia
• Not be listed on any official blacklist of individuals prohibited from entering the country 
• Fee: US$ 25 for 30 days visa and US$ 10 for a 7 day vis

 2. Application in advance

For stays longer than 30 days or citizens from countries not listed as eligible for a visa on arrival. You will need the following:

• Passport valid for a minimum of 6 months
• 1 recent passport-sized colour photograph
• Visa form printed double-sided, filled in capital letters, all questions answered
• Be UK or Ireland resident
• Travel itinerary (proof of booking), including details of onward or return journey 
• Bank Statement dated less than a month with a minimum balance of £ 1,000
• A recent letter (less than 1 month old) from applicant's employer. If self employed, a confirmation letter from applicant's solicitor, or accountant, or Bank Manager. For a student, submit confirmation letter of attendance from school, college or university. "Au pair" or domestic help will have to show employer's passport and submit copy of the said passport and letter from employee. All of the above type of letters must certify the applicant's obligation to return after the visit to Indonesia

From the UK, applications should be submitted Mon-Fri, 10.00am to 1.00pm at the Visa Section of the Indonesian Embassy at 38a, Adam’s Row, London W1.

Visas will be collected from the Embassy 2-3 working days after between 2.30pm and 4.00pm. Please note - the Indonesian Immigration authorities at the port of entry reserve the right to refuse entry into Indonesia.

Travel to Papua is subject to a special permit issued by the Indonesian Immigration Office and the State Police Department in Jakarta before entering these areas.

Phew!

Happy travels :)

Martinique Trip Report

Hello peeps!

A few days left in Martinique before I fly back to the UK for a few weeks. Despite my initial doubts, I had an amazing time here. What's the big deal you might ask? Well, going back home for two months meant I was surrounded by the family 24/7- even while sleeping! No escaping it, but I live to tell the tale...

 1. Getting there
 

There are no direct flights to Martinique from London, so I flew BA for London/Paris then Air France for Paris/Martinique. My original Paris/Martinique was a direct one, but when I got to Paris, I was offered €150 to change to a Paris/Guadeloupe then Guadeloupe/Martinique. Despite the delays and subsequent luggage no show in Martinique following the flight change, it was not a bad deal.

 Other airlines also do the Paris/Martinique route, with various degrees of schedule reliability. That said, Air France was also rather bad on time keeping during December, with flights being delayed almost every day!

Same immigration requirements as for France as this is a French territory. So good news if you hold a European passport, otherwise have a look here for what is needed:

http://www.diplomatie.gouv.fr/en/france/coming-to-france/getting-a-visa/

2. Accommodation

I did not need to look for accommodation as I was staying with my family. As other cousins and their children were also coming for the Xmas/NY holidays, I had my first taste of sharing a bunk-bedded room with up to 3 small kids at a time - ear plugs were liberally applied throughout the stay!

Colourful beach hut, built by an ex convict - no available for hire!

There is choice between high end hotels, guesthouses, rentals and camping.Accommodation in Martinique is usually expensive. The only way to keep costs low is to book ahead. Have a look here for an idea of what is on offer:

http://www.tripadvisor.com.au/Hotels-g147327-Martinique-Hotels.html

3. Weather
 

December and January are within the dry season - called Careme here - but stay fairly windy with the occasional burst of rain. During my whole stay, temperatures were in the mid to high 20s, although some nights were a touch on the chilly side with a "low" and windy 22-23 degC - all still very acceptable!

The rain was never an all-day affair and would leaving plenty of day-time hours to do stuff.The water temperature was well within the mid 20s.

4. Things to do

Thanks to the good weather, there was plenty to do during my stay, aside of eating a feast at every family gathering for Xmas Eve and Day, NY Eve and Day, birthdays, Sundays and every other possible occasion!

The beach at Anse D'Arlet

The beach was my favourite destination, with a swim every other day or so, pending family gatherings. I stayed mainly on the beaches in the south of the island. There the beaches are with white sand, as opposed to the northern part, where the beaches are with black volcanic sand, glittering with tiny little crystals.

Inside the Aquabulle

   

I did an outing on a glass bottomed boat in Le Marin. The Aquabulle (http://www.aquabulle.com/) is unique in offering this concept and it is well worth it! The hull of the boat is like a submarine and you get to see all the little fishes swimming around and there a swim at the end. This marketed towards families with small children - but I really enjoyed it :) 

                                                               

I have always wanted to sail in the Grenadines Islands, so I set out to find a boat doing the route and looking for crew. I finally found a guy, however the plan fell through in the end - being the only female on board, I did not feel very comfortable sharing a rather small space with 3 other guys. I had cold sweat just thinking about bathroom logistics!!

Cruises up or down in the Caribbean from Martinique can be done either aboard a proper cruiser - needs to be booked before arriving here for best deals - or by getting a lift from a private owner. It is rather easy to find boats looking for crew, you just need to keep an eye on the boards at the harbour in Le Marin, or simply talk to people on the pontoons. For a proper job with a charter agency, you need to have some sort of certificate saying you know the basics of sailing, and be registered with the harbour authority.

To soften the disappointment of the missed cruise, I spent a day sailing in the bay opposite Le Robert, in the north-east. The weather was great, sun shining from the word go, friendly crew and a "rum baptism"!

Many companies on the market offering to take you for half a day/day/w.e. Check out http://www.choubouloute.fr/ for a list of what is on offer.

I did mine in Le Robert with the Bwa Drese guys: (https://www.facebook.com/catamaran.bwadrese)

Lunch time stop at a mangrove beach

Another seaside activity: sea kayaking. I did this in a transparent boat! The visit took us out on the reef, then back in the mangrove and finished with a swim on the way back home. Simply amazing!    

 I did my tour with http://fleurdo.com/ but there are a number of companies offering half day/day outings on the classic kayaks or you can just rent one individually. Good listings on http://www.choubouloute.fr/



There are plenty of hiking/trekking/canyoning trails crisscrossing the island, most self-guided though. I could not get a group together to do one of the big trails unfortunately, but I did a short hike in the mangrove. Now that was a little bit smelly and I almost lost a boot in the mud, but was an amazing sight!

Have a look here for more info on the trails available on the island: http://www.onf.fr/martinique/sommaire/onf

Martinique is also a favourite diving spot, with a numbers of ships wrecks close to shore as well as reefs. I did a dive with Nathalie from Kalinago Diving Centre in Sainte Anne (http://www.kalinagoplongee.fr/english/index.html). I was very nervous at the beginning, but Nathalie handled everything very professionally making the whole experience absolutely amazing!

There are countless other activities available, indoors, outdoors, seaside, land bound and air borne! Please check the official website for more info: http://www.martinique.org/

5. Good to know

- Being a French territory, the Euro is the currency in Martinique. ATM are widely available. There are bureaux de change at the airport and main touristic hot spots, and you can also change money at the post office.

- Electricity is 220V, with the round pins system.

- Tap water is OK to drink. Food is OK to consume everywhere, even at the road side and beach shacks. Just keep an eye out for doggy places.

- Mosquitoes are everywhere and very persistent little buggers. Keep your DEET 50% spray handy and sleep under a mosquito net, preferably with the fan or air con on! Long sleeves top and bottoms are also recommended. There is no malaria or yellow fever in Martinique, but the dengue fever is still very much present, so try and avoid mosquitoes!

- Although there are no major issues with safety on the island, keep your eyes open and your belongings where you can see them. Also night time can be a bit rowdy, specially in the capital Fort de France, as alcohol flows more than freely!

- The island is definitely not gay friendly. The majority of the local LGBT is closeted, some even finding it easier to keep a low profile by having "normal" families and hooking up with like minded people in very low key parties and meet ups. Public displays of affection and physical contact should be avoided for same sex couples, as well as trying to chat up a local unless you know for a fact this will be positively received - the response could otherwise be violent.

A couple of bars and one B&B in the touristy hot spot of Pointe du Bout are openly geared up towards the LGBT community. Outside of these, best to pretend being just good friends if traveling as a couple.

It is not all doom and gloom though - the younger generation is somewhat more tolerant, but there is still an awful lot to do on the topic.

- Public transport: in one word - shambolic! Unless you are happy staying put in the area around your accommodation, you need to hire a car, and that does not come cheap. There is a system of mini buses centered on Fort de France, the capital, meaning you might have to go there first to catch another bus to you chosen destination. There are no set schedules, the buses leaving whenever they are full. No night buses, last ones are usually around 5pm. If you are in a big group, it might be interesting to hire a mini bus for the day, but you will need to negotiate hard on the price! Taxis are expensive, so best avoided unless absolutely necessary.

- Doctors and hospitals are French standard, so you will be taken good care off should you need an medical assistance.

- People in Martinique are very laid back, meaning service can sometimes be veeeery slow! Only way to deal with it is to just keep your cool, getting all worked up will not make things go any quicker :)

That's it on Martinique. Hope you will come visit some day, it is a very nice little corner of the world.

Warm regards from Martinique

How I was a tourist in my home country

Hello peeps!

My time in Martinique is coming to an end and I am amazed at all the things I experienced during my stay.

I left the island almost 16 years ago, to complete my education in France as many people my generation did. But despite being born here, for the past few years I have felt very much like an outsider every time I came back.

Over the past 2 months, I got to go sailing, hiking, sampling the local gastronomy, sea kayaking, diving, going to a painting exhibition, visiting museums, being a nanny, a teacher and being a beach bum. I always had my camera at hand, flashing everything from family gatherings to beautiful landscapes and bugs!

This is the longest I have been in Martinique since I left, and this time I took the time to actually go and discover my island. It is true what they say, you never know how much you miss something until it is gone. I opened myself to my surrounding and ended up joining forces with an American and a Polish guy to go sightseeing!

I am not saying everything is all good and rosy in Martinique, far from it! The current local debate on the gay marriage seems to bring the worst out of some people. Think the Imams demonstrating in London and shouting violent slogans are bad? Then think again! One of the best seller songs for the up coming Carnival celebrations is spreading homophobic messages on mainstream radio here. Sad, but true.

Not all is to throw away either, and this is the bit I really miss - spending time with my family, wearing shorts and flip flops every day, feel the warm breeze on my skin and going to the beach pretty much every day.

I will always keep Martinique close to my heart - this is were my kin laid roots, so this will always be "back home" for me. But, it is not "home" anymore and I will only be a tourist in my home country now.

Now, as Buzz Lightyear famously said - to infinity and beyond!!!!
:)

Xmas wishes

Hello peeps!

Did you all get loads of pressies from Santa yesterday?

We had a very nice family gathering, with food, laughter and presents. Wagon loads of presents! Less than last year - la crise oblige :) - but still enough to fill the few car loads!

Very early on, I told the family I did not want any presents. Call me Scrooge, but anything they would give me, either I would have to find a space for it in my bag or it would spend a whole year in storage while I am off traveling. I still got a few little things - bless them - but all very practical: food, food and more food :)

While I was high on all the chocolate and sweets I got from Santa, I got remembering the Christmases of my youth. Back when everything was less about how many gifts you could afford, but more about that sense of togetherness that would wrap around you like a fluffy blanket.

OK, I know things always seem nicer and rosier when you look back on the "good old days", bit still. I remember each one would bring a dish to share and a couple of gifts, and we would all get a little token pressie at the end of the evening. Sitting at the table and sharing food was the main focus of the evening, not the frantic unwrapping of presents.

Now it feels the more stuff under the tree the better.

But actually not so in my opinion - specially when looking at the truck load of gifts for the kids! My little nephews and nieces had so much stuff, they could not focus on any one thing. They were opening gifts whilst eying the next one already. In the end - everything was opened, but already this morning all these toys are pushed to a side!

Now do not get me wrong - it is always nice to receive a gift. it makes you feel a bit fuzzy inside whether you are the giver or the receiver. But - I think we should be careful with confusing buying power with measure love.Even with the most disgruntled teenager, more gifts is not equal more love. It just means you have deep pockets and calls for more

So leave the credit card in, your bank account will thank you for it, and give more of yourself - this is the most important.

If the end of the world was tonight, you sure would spend the rest your time together - so I wish you all a very Merry Xmas and my wish is that you enjoy some loving and caring time with your families and friends.

OH OH OH
:)

Let's stop and reflect - 2wks into the trip

Hello peeps!

Tomorrow will be 2wks I have started my trip, and I feel like a bit of introspection time is due :)

Here we go then - 2 wks ago:
- I left the UK to start my 15 months adventure around the world
- I was looking forward to spending my days at the beach, eating seafood and drinking fruit juices at every meals, including snacks
- I was a little sad to leave behind my life and friends but eager to get on the road. At the same time I was a bit anxious as to how things would go since I have never done any traveling on my own for such a long time before

Now, 2wks after:
- I have been actively looking for a job since last week - either teaching for the Xmas holidays or as crew on a boat. I actually miss the routine of going in the office!!!
- I have met an American guy also on holidays in Martinique and we are now hanging out regularly to go to the beach or drinks
- My hair and skin are so happy - no dryness, no tightness, just happy and full of life
- I do spend most of my days at the beach, but I am definitely not eating as much seafood or drinking as much fruit juice as I thought I would!
- I have lost all sens of time or days passing, which can be slightly disconcerting sometimes
- I find it rather difficult to keep the routine of working on my training and I am already 1wk behind schedule - not good at all as my credentials are time bound, so I will have to make up the missed sessions somehow!!
- After 2wks back here my home country I can safely say that I will not be able to come and live here - something I have known for a while now, but now it is confirmed beyond any doubt :(

Verdict of these 2wks:
Still very much positive. I truly believe I took the right decision to go away for a while. Despite missing my friends dearly, having my own home and - I know, I am crazy - the routine of going to the office, I feel good and I am enjoying every single minute of it!

This is a feeling I wish everyone could enjoy. Taking control of ones life is one of the most exhilarating joys you could ever experience - so people, TAKE CONTROL and enjoy :)

That's it for now, I am off for a ride with my little nephew. He's so cute, but what a nightmare to look after!

7 days to Xmas.....  :)